Over the river…. The Ponte de 25 Abril bridge goes over the river….. the Christo Rei stands vigil over the river…..the best seafood is over the river….. Today is time to head over the river. The ferries are large and clean. They move swiftly over the river.

We step out onto the dock. Lisbon is now over the river on the opposite shore. A lighthouse and bus depot coexist at the shoreline. A train line also meets the river. We walk around the busy area looking for a bus to take us to Christo Rei.

Christ the King is a large statue of Jesus that dominates the skyline across the river from Lisbon. The grounds are an oasis of calm. Olive groves surround the statue and soothing music plays throughout the groves. The statue itself it is more chaotic. We stand in line and are only allowed on the elevator when there are four more people in line than I believe the elevator should hold. When I am convinced that there can be no way anyone else can enter, the elevator operator pushes her way into the car. We make the assent, but are surprised to find that the elevator does not go to the top. We get out and have several flights of stairs yet to climb.

We step out into a brisk wind. The views over the river are spectacular. We look down on the bridge and the rugged shoreline. The town of Cacilhas spreads out across the hills below. We make a circle around the platform, under the feet of Jesus.

Afterwards, we walk down the steps, through the gift shop, and back on the crowded elevator. It is warmer on the ground. The stations of the cross are laid out along the campus. We take our time appreciating the artwork and the natural beauty of the park. Along the way, we look across the river to Lisbon. It looks peaceful and serene in the morning sun.

Suddenly hungry, we take the bus back to the harbor and search for food. We find a small restaurant across from the church. The owner does not speak English and we communicate through smiles and gestures. I see what I want to order, but the menu does not include a price. The English menu does not match the Portuguese menu. I use google translate to try and help me find the information. A young man appears at our table and asks if he can help. He goes to kitchen and comes back with the answers. We order and relax.

As I make my way to the water closet, I notice that the young man we assumed was a waiter was eating with his wife in the back of the restaurant. Embarrassed we go over and apologize. He smiles and explains that his father owns the restaurant. We laugh together and meet his dad. It is the best food we have had in Portugal. The food is really better over the river.

With full stomachs, we notice a ship along the riverbank and decide to investigate. The Gloria is the last sailing navy vessel to make the Índia run. The ship traveled across oceans many times, for months at a time. We climb aboard and explore.

Looking in each nook and cranny, I imagine what life on a sailing ship. It is both more spacious in the interior than I imagined and smaller overall than would be comfortable on the open seas. Every inch is used. Ingenious use of space and materials ensure that nothing is wasted. We wander up and down decks and in and out of cabins until we have run out of spaces to explore.

In the late afternoon, we walk under the cliff along the old docks. The walls are covered in graffiti. The first several docks look sketchy and abandoned. I had read that there were parks and a free elevator to the tops of the cliffs further along, so we walk on.

As we walk along the river, the graffiti becomes surreal. I am astounded by the realism and the raw beauty of the art. Two men are spray painting a new creation. We step around them, near the water to keep moving along the riverbank. We encounter small beaches and cafes along the water. Isolated and beautiful, the cafes are hidden gems. We reach a park and see the anticipated elevator. It is glass so that riders have unobstructed views over the river. It’s only purpose is to connect the docks with the town on the cliffs above. We enjoy the views on the way up.

Once in the heart of town, we decide to walk back down the hillside. We walk through residential neighborhoods, parks, and commercial shopping districts. In between, we catch beautiful views over the river.

Once back to the docks, we scan our transport card and wait for the ferry. This time, the vessel is old and looks less trustworthy for the voyage over the river. We board and settle on dirty seats and look out dirty windows. Before I have to ponder why the beautiful catamaran ferry from the morning was no longer running, we were over the river. I stepped off the boat and looked toward Christo Rei and the bridge…over the river.