
I love a good park. Parque das Nacoes was created in 1998 as the site of the Lisbon World Exposition. It is a large modern park along the banks of the Tagus. After several failed attempts to exit the Oriente metro, we eventually found our way to the central section of the park. We had to cross a busy intersection and navigate through a shopping mall, but eventually we made it to some benches in the shade. The park mascot greeted us with plastic arms held high.

Sitting in the park was therapeutic. We watched children play and pigeons strut. Pine trees swayed and the beautiful Tagus River rolled by. People on bicycles and scooters bounced over pavement made wavy by roots and weather. We took bets on who was going to wipe out and who would make it across the bricks.

We walked along the banks of the river, but the bridge across the lagoon was closed. We could go no further, so we strolled up stream instead. I wanted to walk to the cable car station at the far end of the park. My husband, reluctant but ever the good sport, agreed. After purchasing two tickets and a taking few steps into a moving aerial tram, we were air born. Just like little kids, we pressed our faces to glass to look down to river and the park below. We took photos of the unique buildings in and around the park. Ahead in the distance, we could see the Oceanario, our target destination. I felt excited. I was going to get up close and personal with sea life.

Upon exit (quickly because the tram didn’t stop), we walked toward the Oceanario. We saw doors, but they didn’t open. When in Lisbon, you should expect to walk around the building to buy tickets ….so we walked around the building. Next to the ticket office was a large waterfall. I walked behind the falling water and splashed my hands in the spray. You are never too old for water play.

Upon entry, we were surrounded by families with small children. Just like at the zoo, you almost feel bad defending your small viewing space from encroaching children. We quickly learned that if we were going to see anything we were going to have claim our space. I quickly forgot about everything but the sea creatures.

The first exhibit was a wonder of sights and sound. An under water forest, created by a Japanese artist was a glorious moving, living tableau of plants. Small fish darted in an out of the changing the plantscape to the sounds of spa like music. It was mesmerizing. The plants were in constant synchronized motion.


With the world’s largest saltwater aquarium, Oceanario staff have a lot of tanks and sea life to care for. Despite the extensive collections, they had the cleanest, best cared for tanks I have ever seen. It was clear that they cared about the ocean ecosystem and were committed to education and conservation. Each tank was unique and pristine. We dodged free flying seabirds, played with otters, and stared down sharks. I scowled at the moray eels, but by the time we left, my face hurt from smiling.
When we exited the Oceanario, it was well past lunch time. One of the first restaurants we passed was Chimarrao. My husband lit up like a little kid at Christmas when he realized it was an all you can eat restaurant where they walk around with meat on giant skewers and carve directly to your plate. I explored the buffet of foods, including many that were unknown to me. It was a culinary adventure. Our waitress did not converse in English although I am pretty sure she understood us. I like a challenge so we just kept talking to the meat carvers. It was a little chaotic as there was a large gender reveal party at the table next to us. The place was packed with families enjoying the afternoon and hustling for the buffet.
I learned some things. I now know that I love mixed seafood cakes, but am not so fond of seaweed salad or bloody meat. It was an educational and overall pleasant experience. My partner didn’t even get the meat sweats, although it was a close call.

After all that meat, I needed to walk a bit. So I strolled the park’s central avenue and took pictures of statues. My favorite was a giant cat sculpture made entirely of plastic trash retrieved from the ocean. The Portuguese have a special relationship with the sea, so I was delighted to see something so beautiful reclaimed from garbage previously polluting the ocean. It was a playful statue and a real attention getter in the center of the park.

After playing like little kids all morning, I channeled my inner teenager and convinced my spouse to cruise the Vasco de Gama Mall (what else could they call it? This is Lisbon after all). While I didn’t need a thing, we wandered three floors of fashion, electronics, and beauty products. I must be the wrong age to appreciate Portuguese fashion. Everything skewed too young or too old. But a girl can dream.

Oriente Station was easier to navigate on the way back. A short metro ride later and we were back to St. Apollonia station. Even though it was only a 10 minute walk back to the apartment, we opted to wait for the bus that would take us to a stop that would leave us with a five minute walk. Why trade a 10 minute walk for a five minute walk? Walking the entire way included numerous stairs and a continuous steep hill. The walk from the bus stop was a slow meander downhill to our door. We agreed the bus was a better option. As much as we acted like children through the day, our muscles and joints knew our actual age and decided to remind us. We played. We paid. For once I listened.