Gardens and Galleries in Verbania: Travel Goals


Some days just exceed expectations. I woke up to a beautiful pink sunrise. The rain had washed the earth clean and the birds were singing their thanks. We had no where to be and took our time, lingering over coffee.

We drove around the lake to Verbania and the Villa Taranto. I wasn’t expecting much. It was known for its garden, but in mid-October the flowers are usually past their prime. But the day continued to exceed expectations. Thousands of dahlias greeted us. My friend’s father died last week. I missed the remembrance because we are in Italy. He used to raise dahlias. I thought fondly of days long past as I walked amongst the giant blossoms.

The garden was large, with views of the lake and the Alps. We caught a glimpse of the Villa, but the main attraction was the glorious trees and perfect landscaping. Each new tree welcomed me with bright leaves and sturdy trunks. I breathed in the intoxicating smells of eucalyptus and magnolias. Lemon trees were surprisingly pungent and unpleasant. But they were still lovely to see.

We had coffee and tiny pastries at the water garden. Koi and water lilies made peaceful companions. Colorful blooms danced in the breeze under the watchful eyes of bronze water nymphs. Palm trees juxtaposed themselves against snow covered mountains, creating a surreal atmosphere.

I could have lingered all day in this garden of endless delights. The master gardeners clearly took great pride in their work. The benches were wet from the overnight rain or we would have curled up and basked in the glow of Lake Maggiore for the afternoon. But hunger won out. We stopped for gelato (the only disappointment for the day…the scoop was minuscule) to ward off stomach rumbling.

Soon after leaving the garden, we arrived in downtown Pallanza. Following narrow one way streets, we parked next to a police station. I read that there was a small museum in town and we decided to give it a try. We weren’t expecting much.

They asked how two Americans found themselves in Palanza on a Wednesday afternoon. We just smiled and said we were exploring the nearby towns one by one. They asked if we wanted a tour and we said we preferred to explore on our own.

Art, in my opinion should be experienced. I don’t want to give my attention to someone telling me how I should react or what I should notice. I want my reaction to be authentic and let the pieces speak for themselves. In this case the main collection was of a local sculptor of Russian Italian ancestry, Paolo Troubetzkoy. He had dozens of a sculptures depicting life in the late 1800’s to early 1900’s period. He had apparently studied with Rodin and had hosted many famous people of the day. The collection was quite interesting.

Most surprising was the collection of landscapes. We found one of the cascata de Toce waterfall we had visited earlier. Even though it was painted in the 1800s, we recognized the inn where we ate lunch and the path we walked. Charming canvas evoking the warmth of the region. Most of all, we were stunned and moved by a large painting of farm workers. The emotion on the faces pulled you into the painting. It was startling and breathtaking and beautiful. A picture can’t really do it justice.

So many surprises this day! We had missed lunch, because we were so caught up in unexpected delights. On the way home, we stopped at a McDonald’s for comfort fries. It was in a shopping mall. Of course I had to check out the local shopping experience. Next door, I was delighted to find an Aldi. Great food, cheese, fruit, bread, meat…the day just keeps getting better. At days end we feasted on steak and celebrated our good fortune. I love it when a day is full of pleasant surprises.