
Some days just exceed my expectations. I wake up to a beautiful pink sunrise. The rain has washed the earth clean and the birds are singing their thanks. We have no where to be and take our time, lingering over coffee.

We drive around the lake to Verbania and the Villa Taranto. I am not expecting much. It is known for its garden, but in mid-October the flowers are usually past their prime. But this day continues to exceed expectations. Thousands of dahlias greet us. My friend’s father died last week. I missed the remembrance because we are in Italy. He used to raise dahlias. I think fondly of him as I walk among the giant blossoms.

The garden is large, with views of the lake and the Alps. We catch a glimpse of the Villa, but the main attraction is the glorious trees and perfect landscaping. Each new tree welcoms me with bright leaves and sturdy trunks. I breathe in the intoxicating smells of eucalyptus and magnolias. Lemon trees are surprisingly pungent and unpleasant. But they are still lovely to see.

We have coffee and tiny pastries at the water garden. Koi and water lilies make peaceful companions. Colorful blooms dance in the breeze under the watchful eyes of bronze water nymphs. Palm trees juxtapose themselves against snow covered mountains, creating a surreal atmosphere.

I could linger all day in this garden of endless delights. The master gardeners clearly take great pride in their work. The benches are wet from the overnight rain or we would curl up and bask in the glow of Lake Maggiore for the afternoon. But hunger wins out. We stop for gelato (the only disappointment for the day…the scoop is minuscule) to ward off stomach rumbling.

Soon after leaving the garden, we arrive in downtown Pallanza. Following narrow one way streets, we park next to a police station. I read that there is a small museum in town and we decide to give it a try. We aren’t expecting much.
They ask how two Americans find themselves in Pallanza on a Wednesday afternoon. We just smile and say we are exploring the nearby towns one by one. They ask if we want a tour and we say we prefer to explore on our own.

Art, in my opinion should be experienced. I don’t want to give my attention to someone telling me how I should react or what I should notice. I want my reaction to be authentic and let the pieces speak for themselves. In this case the main collection is of a local sculptor of Russian Italian ancestry, Paolo Troubetzkoy. He made dozens of a sculptures depicting life in the late 1800’s to early 1900’s period. He studied with Rodin and hosted many famous people of the day here in Pallanza. I find the entire collection quite interesting.

Most surprising is the collection of landscapes. We find one of the Cascata de Toce waterfall we visited earlier. Even though it was painted in the 1800s, we recognize the inn where we ate lunch and the path we walked. The charming canvas evokes the warmth of the region. Most of all, we are stunned and moved by a large painting of farm workers. The emotion on the faces pulls me into the painting. It is startling and breathtaking and beautiful. A picture can’t really do it justice.

So many surprises this day! We miss lunch, because we are so caught up in unexpected delights. On the way home, we stop at a McDonald’s for comfort fries. It is in a shopping mall. Of course I have to check out the local shopping experience. Next door, I am delighted to find an Aldi. Great food, cheese, fruit, bread, meat…the day just keeps getting better. At days end we feast on steak and celebrate our good fortune. I love it when a day is full of pleasant surprises.