Sunny, magical days have to be interrupted occasionally. And so the rain set in for a multi-day period of grey clouds and damp pavement. Since we were in Italy to experience Italy, we set off for a wet drive around the lake to Cannobio on Lake Maggiore (….not to be confused with Cannobio on Lake Como).

Despite the heavy rain warnings, the rain here (at least to these midwestern travelers who are very used to severe thunderstorms and torrential rain) seemed light, slow, and steady. The rain would eventually accumulate to about five inches over the course of three days.

We stoped at the lake front in Cannobio and could just barely make out the mountain across the lake. It would disappear and reappear throughout the morning as the clouds rolled by. The fog had its own charm, making the landscape dramatic and constantly changing.

We decided to walk the city, but needed to find a more central parking lot. This was always the worst parts of days, as finding a spot to park in an unfamiliar town that was built before cars were invented was always an uncertain quest. It usually involved circling the perimeter of the city until you either randomly guessed what lot might be closer to where you needed to be…. or you ceased to care about location and you just took a spot because it was available and you were tired of trying. We opted to take the only available spot in a lot about five blocks from the Main Street. It was a good find.

The next part of our rainy Italian adventure was to determine which unmarked alley would actually get us from our car to the town. If we were lucky, we might occasionally see a sign to “historico Centro”. In fairness, this town did not ask for visitors. If an Italian came to my town, there would not be signs either…..but they could drive around and park in front of literally anywhere. I was walking in the rain, and not thinking about my usual support of reduced dependence on automobiles.

We eventually found the right path. I was being so careful to step around the puddles forming on the stone streets. In my focus to stay dry, I hopped onto a flagstone tile and it immediately sunk down into a puddle, completely soaking my feet. With wet socks and shoes making squishing noises while I walked, we finally found the Main Street. It was full of quaint shops. Ahhh, Italy…the rain was no longer on my mind.

Cheese shops, meat shops, wine shops, leather shops, tailors, …. On one long street all you need…Simple, walkable, communal…. I actually liked this better than having to drive all over town…..even in the rain. We have definitely lost something in America with our big box stores far removed from the lifeblood of our towns.

We stepped into a botteglia shop. It was full of a variety of bottled beverages from the region. The shop keeper was excited that Americans had wandered in on a slow, rainy day. We chatted, mixing languages in the way you do when neither party is fluent in the other’s language. She gave us samples of her favorites. These things we may never have experienced had we not wandered in the rain. After a pleasant respite, we bought “Paradisio”. Paradise in a bottle….I was unsure what is in it, but it did taste good. And the shopkeeper was more than gracious. We had a wonderful cultural exchange that was unexpected.

Me being me, we also visited churches with stunning marble interiors. I ducked in courtyards with brightly colored statues of ducks (pun intended). Similar colored frogs hung from balconies. Foxes stood in the park. Large yellow birds lined city hall. The colorful creations warmed a dreary day. These whimsical animals speak of civic pride and community.

Before we knew it, it was time for lunch. We walked the row of restaurants along the pier and selected the “sport bar” solely because it had a large outdoor canopy with functional gas heaters and blankets. I wrapped up in a lap blanket, under a heater and attempted to dry. Meanwhile, the waiter brought appetizers of olives and bread. I took the plunge and tried the aperol spritz, a local favorite. It was light and fruity. I ordered the local risotto, loaded with fresh cheese. The risotto was definitely not light, but it was delicious.

Fortified with a heavy midday meal and a newly purchased umbrella, we stopped in the town of Ghiffa. It boasted yet another Sacro Monte. It was the smallest sacred mountain shrine we had visited. The carvings were interesting, but much simpler the other sites. The chapels were younger, dating from the 1600-1700’s. But they were not as well kept.

What I noticed most was the lack of fresco. The carvings were mounted to largely bare walls. The simplicity and austerity of the place somehow fit the rainy afternoon. I wondered for a bit about why the newest site was also less exceptional. Does modernity diminish beauty? Do we value cost over craftsmanship or is it something else?

Except for the car that tried to run me over in the parking lot and a few workers conversing on the perimeter, the place was devoid of people. A land time forgot. We explored in the fog alone.

In an interesting landscaping choice, the walkways made a circle around the chapels, but did not actually lead to a chapel. To visit each area, you had to go off the path and through the water logged yard. It didn’t really matter. My feet couldn’t get any wetter. My pants, it turned out, could get a lot wetter. When I stepped on an unassuming flagstone tile, it tilted and created a plume of water that soaked my entire torso. Suddenly wet to my waist, I squished my way to chapel of Abraham…. At least there was a great view of Lake Maggiore from up here on the sacred mountain…..oh dense fog…. I still had a good imagination even if had temporarily misplaced my sense of humor.

We laughed in the car as I wrung out my socks and lower pant legs. In no time at all we were down the mountain and back on the road to civilization. Needing groceries, we found an Aldi and happily purchased fresh cheese, Italian salami, fresh bread, and a variety of other treats.

Back at the house, I found some dry clothes. The rainy day provoked a nesting response so I started a load of laundry and cooked up some steak. After dinner we curled up on the couch and settled in for a James Bond marathon. It has been a slow day. We actually didn’t do much, except walk around in places that were supposed to keep us semi-dry. (At least half of my body did stay dry, so the mission was accomplished. In future, I will need to state my intentions differently). Unplanned and not the type of day you would ever see in a travel book, we had an adventure into the unknown and we laughed …. a lot. That is always a travel goal win even in soggy shoes.