The flowers are blooming in Bergen even if it is only barely above freezing. The sun is shining and things look bright as we start the trek down the steep hill towards the town. Walking the switchbacks, we have a great view of the harbor. The birds sing and the boats roll in from the sea. It is hard not to feel joy.

We easily find the Rosenkrantz Tower, the most significant Medieval structure in Norway. A true fortress castle, the tower is multiple floors of medieval halls accessible by tiny, narrow stairs. Up and up to the chapel, and then on to the men’s hall. I stop to imitate the gargoyles. What would it have been like to have to climb these steep and narrow stairs? How cold would it be in winter?

The upper floors hold cannon and gun powder. If your arsenal is stored in your house, what happens in a fire? These are things I am happy I don’t have to consider.

The roof wall affords a chilly view of the harbor. A boatman is rocking out on 80’s hair bands as he works on deck. I smile and feel instant kinship. Gen x salutes you…

Inside the castle, panels tell the sorry tale of the wife of a bishop who is accused of being a witch when her husband dies. It is a story of jealous women, greed, and a vulnerable woman who was unjustly persecuted and executed with no evidence. A minister’s wife targeted for her education and social conscience.

Deep in thought, I survive the steep circular descent and emerge into the Bergenhus Festning (Fortress). It is a strange mix of military base and public park. Home of the Norwegian Music corps and medieval castles. The walk is lovely and I am intrigued by large crow like birds that dance across the grass. Also, I am surprised that we are walking through an active military base.

Just around the corner, we enter Hakon’s Hall. It is a large structure built for the wedding of King Hakon in the early 1200’s as a royal residence and feast hall. Today it is a strange building. The admission is high. We wander through large rooms that are full of modern tables and chairs. The area is crisscrossed by wooden platforms and stairs. Signs tell you that the furniture is protected by law and that the rooms can be rented or used by the royal family, etc. I am struggling to see why we just paid for this experience.

Just as I am starting to feel like the world’s most gullible tourist, we climb the stairs into the hall. The great room is impressive. The Dias speaks of royalty. The timbers supporting the roof are massive. The tapestries are inspired. I realize the magic of this place.

Eventually, we follow the music to the Bergenhus Festning Museum. It is a small military museum. We are greeted at the door by a staff sergeant who welcomes us. The first gallery is a photographic journey through the early days of Russia’s invasion of Ukraine. Horrific photos of civilian casualties, of war crimes, and families fleeing the destruction break my heart. But I am happy to see a truthful historical record and obvious support.

Just downstairs, the World War II exhibit tells the story of Nazi invasion and Norwegian Resistance. Artifacts and photographs tell a terrible tale of rights taken, citizens targeted, the escape of the king, and the brave men and women that gave their lives in the fight for freedom. A large area chronicled the propaganda, the policing of speech, and the underground resistance. Sobering…

After the reminder of the terrible chaos power hungry men can inflict, we decide to go to church. St. Mary’s cathedral is one of the oldest churches in Norway. The pulpit is dazzling, carved and painted wood. It is a simple reminder that God supports the world and that we are all connected. I say a prayer for this country and ours. I pray for peace and liberty and justice for all.

It is late afternoon and we need food. Meals are very expensive, so a quick lunch will have to do. I will cook a nice evening meal at the apartment. But first, we walk through Bryggen. The old wooden buildings are a protected world heritage site. From these shops the Hanseatic League engaged in world trade for over 400 years. The buildings are quirky, crooked, and densely packed. Today, shops and restaurants fill the buildings as commerce continues. Tourists buy woolens and fur. I am content to browse. . . My husband waits patiently and thinks about walking up that big hill to get to our apartment.