
A great rule of travel is to expect the unexpected. This usually means to be prepared for things to go wrong. Some days, however, are unexpectedly full of delightful surprises. Today is one of those days. After sleeping much later than I intended, we take our time getting ready. A walk across town, gave me the perfect opportunity to photograph the Bryggen waterfront. The colorful buildings are beautiful when framed by water and sky.

We decide to visit the aquarium. After wandering streets through high rise business. San Francisco style switchback streets, and a few parks along the water we arrive. We are the only visitors not accompanied by a small child, and there are several groups of preschoolers wearing yellow vests and chatting excitedly.
I am intrigued immediately by the penguins. They each have a colored armband that corresponded to a display board with their name. Knowing each name somehow makes them more accessible. We call their names and watch their antics like old friends.

Nearby, the sea lions jump and swim, cajoling us to play along. The largest member of the pod, “Amy” screams over and over. She watches the park from her overlook and is making a lot of noise. We realize she is looking for someone, maybe calling for someone. Is she hungry? Hurt?After about ten minutes, keepers appear and it is show time. Amy gets fed and medically checked while she dies a series of commands that earn her fish. She is a prima donna.

Inside, we are all alone in the tropical gallery. As we are admiring the Philippine crocodiles, a door opens behind me and two men appear with a python. Startled, we strike up a conversation. The younger man is giving his first creature “presentation”. We willingly listen and obediently pet the snake. (We don’t like snakes, but want to encourage him.) We learn there are only three snakes in Norway and that only one is venomous. The senior keeper wants to know all about the snakes in the woods where we live. He is almost giddy as I describe encounters with copperheads, cottonmouths, and rattlesnakes.
With enthusiasm, we are invited behind the scenes…since it is just the two of us in the entire complex. Wooden doors are opened into the display areas. Mice are placed on long metal poles. A monitor lizard with fierce jaws wrestles the mouse away almost faster than I can process and the. Runs away.
At the next door, a boa is laying against the opening and has to pushed back in to keep him from falling on us. A mouse is offered and the boa strikes quickly. It then tries to squeeze the already dead mouse. I don’t really like snakes, but am fascinated nonetheless. The keepers don’t have to take time to share their world with us and yet they are sharing with great enthusiasm. It is clear they love their work and their animals. We are touched and grateful.

As much as we enjoy the aquarium, by late afternoon we are hungry. Food at the aquarium (fish soup or hotdogs) is not appealing to us so we decide to walk to a highly rated food truck along the harbor. When we arrive, the promised vendor is no where in sight. Hmmm. Never fear! Just around the corner, we find Kippers.
The view is good so we sit and examine the menu. We are the only people in the dining room (the locals all sit outside in the brisk 40 degree sunshine). At first, the offerings do not make sense to our American dining habits. Also, Norwegian food is expensive. Easily double what we would pay at home, I am having a hard time making my brain feel like it is worth the expense. Finally, we order fries and a cheese platter. A solid lunch we can share, but definitely nothing fancy.
After chatting with the waitress and settling in to watch the boats drive by, we notice excitement in the kitchen. I hear the chef say, “look but don’t touch”. Soon, all five sous chefs appear. The chef came carrying a beautiful tray of meat and roasted tomatoes. They take photos and ooh and ahh over the dish. We smile and enjoyed watching their excitement about new menu possibilities. Suddenly the head chef appears with a beautiful small tray of steak in a white sauce. For us, he says. Just because we happen to be in the restaurant at the right time and because we are sharing in their joy. It is delicious. We recommend it to be added to the menu. We are satiated and grateful.

By late afternoon, we make our way back to the Nordnesparken. The historic city landmark has a heated pool, a sauna, and access to the sea. When in Norway…. You have to sauna and take the polar plunge. We wait in line with the locals on very narrow steep steps. Old men with speedos in mesh bags push past us. They apparently have annual passes and can’t be bothered with those of us who need to buy admission…Even if they have to knock us off of the steps to pass us. It is chaos.
Eventually we get a bracelet that allows access. We split up to enter through gender based locker rooms. The changing room is one long room that empties into the pool area. No room to be shy. No place for privacy. When in Norway….

The pool is heated to 90 degrees, perfect for the 40 degree weather. I giggle when I realize that the lifeguards have on heavy winter coats and scarves. My hero is a 90 plus year old lady who appears in her bathing suit, jumps directly into the 40 degree seawater, gets out and stands calmly talking to people for fifteen full minutes in the 40 degree weather. She gets herself a coffee and stands nonchalantly drinking it before heading inside, never stepping foot in either the heated pool or the sauna. Iron granny is a bad ass.

We stick with the heated pool. But I begin to feel adventurous. Inspired by the iron granny, I head to the sauna for five minutes of intense heat. Fortified, I climb down the ladder to the sea. I can do this if a ninety year old can do this. Five to six seconds later, after very, very briefly wetting my torso in the frigid fjord, I walk as calmly as I can to the heated pool. Sweet Lord help me! No need to make a spectacle. Iron granny, I am not. I can’t feel my limbs. Adventurous slightly wimpy granny, is as much as I can claim.
I expect the unexpected. I am willing to get out there. I am willing to interact with strangers. I will try new things. I like to think I am resilient and tough. But swim in a frozen fjord and then linger in the freezing cold to chat with strangers tough…I am not. Some day….maybe I will be someone’s inspiration to try new things and take a more adventurous approach to life. But alas, I will never be an iron granny level of cool. She inspires without ever knowing I notice her.
