Today we leave Bergen aboard the Hurtigruten Coastal Express. This ferry system has traversed the length of Norway since 1893 and is our home for the next four nights. Norway has the second longest coastline in the world (which we sailed last Spring). Hurtigruten means the fast route because it runs 24 hours a day. They carry people, mail, goods, and cars. We picked the boat because of the local history and the fact that it is a local boat that is connected to the community.

After carefully putting our rental house in order, we walk across town to the Hurtigruten ferry terminal. It is about a mile and we have heavy rolling luggage so we take our time. It is thankfully a downhill walk.

With Hurtigruten docks in sight, we stop at a French cafe for lunch. We pile our baggage in a corner, hoping it is out of the way. I imagine we are not the first or last to do so. Waiting for our meal and talking about our boat, we notice a small dachshund wearing a winter sweater wandering by. He stops to chat. After an impromptu photo shoot, we part friends.

My Italiane pastry is excellent and the coffee divine. The barista sends me coffee with a dachshund shaped in cream. He says he was inspired by the little guy. My desert doesn’t arrive. I seek out the owner, because I need my French pastry. He laughs and brings me a large slice with an apology. I am happy here among dogs, and smiles, and pastry.

Just a block away, the ferry terminal beckons. Donning the backpack and towing my luggage, we trek onward. We are thankfully able to quickly check in our luggage. The Hurtigruten staff are friendly, professional, and efficient. In short order, we are directed to a lounge where we play cards and drink coffee. There are also fresh, hot cinnamon rolls. Unlimited coffee and warm pastries make for a pleasant afternoon. I am directed to join their membership program to access the WiFi. I need to do remote work on the boat so I make sure to gain access while I still have cellular data access. Who knows what happens in the Norwegian Sea? The time passes quickly and soon we can officially check in and proceed to watch the safety briefing.

Once aboard, the ship is bright and clean. Our room has lots of storage and a spacious bathroom. Unfortunately it also has narrow single beds. I take a top bunk that pulls down from the wall at night. This way I won’t be annoyed when my husband wants to watch tv and I want to sleep. The thick down comforter looks welcoming, even if we have bunk beds. I will try not to roll off and kill myself.

After unpacking, we explore the ship. With nine levels, the ship holds about 500 passengers as well as heavy cargo and vehicles moving up the coast. The levels for passengers is not unlike a cruise ship. It is very clean and comfortable. I am surprised that there is a large British tour group aboard.

We find three restaurants, two hot tubs, saunas, a fitness room, laundry, library, and several lounges. The introductory session with the expedition crew is very dry and uninformative. We get helpful tidbits like, “don’t clog the toilets.” This was definitely not an entertainment cruise ship experience. It seems they are all business. But then, I thrive on quirky.

The passengers appear to be much older… seniors from Germany and England. While there are a few other Americans, we are largely outnumbered. The good news is that in an international crowd, English is the lingua franca.

The bad news is that my finicky eating travel mate is going to have a hard time these next few days. The ship specializes in local Norwegian cuisine, which means lots of fish and lamb. Seaweed, fish soup, and reindeer round out the menu. At our first meal aboard, I try the reindeer sandwich and it is delicious! Turns out that this midwestern girl who doesn’t really like meat, loves reindeer.

Belly full, I return to the cabin and climb up into my bunk. The down comforter is as comfortable as it looks and the rocking of the ship sends me sound asleep. I hope to dream of Northern lights and polar bears. An adventure into the arctic has begun.