I love to be at sea. Early in the morning, I am often the only one on deck. As morning breaks over the water, at first only shadows appear. Slowly the landscape takes shape amid an orange glow. The waves are shadowy and alive.

The air smells clean and the wind is brisk. It is silent and peaceful. Slowly, though, the boat awakens with soft murmurs as other early risers join the gathering. Eventually the peaceful morning is disturbed by the talkative ones. People who are never silent are a blight on the beautiful day….at least initially. I am always resentful of the intrusion on the beautiful sounds of nature and/or silence.

Once the ship is bustling and I am past my regret that the early morning couldn’t last. It is time for coffee and a little work. Perhaps a walk around the outside decks to get some exercise.

This boat is big, but not a cruise ship. It is comfortable, but there is not much to do. The common areas are clean and spacious and the outdoor scenery is beautiful when not obscured by clouds, rain, or snow. But after a few days, the beautiful mountains begin to look alike.

I try to work from a common room and a German tourist is upset because I took a zoom call near him. No matter that several others had done the same. I upset his peace and quiet. Not matter that I was there quietly working when they came and sat by me. He felt I should work in my cabin. The WiFi is not as strong in my cabin so that is not an option. My husband says it does sound loud.

I don’t want to disrupt someone’s peace, so I get up and work standing in a hall where the WiFi still works. The man is upset (I ruined his vacation peace) and I am also upset (I am working in a common room where I was sitting alone when they entered and taking a client zoom call.) I picked the spot because another man was doing the same kind of work when I entered. I avoided the quiet of the library and the observation lounge. No matter. Neither of us were happy. Maybe it was a clash of cultures… maybe he felt the way I feel when the loud talkers show up in the morning.

By the third day, I am a little stir crazy. The one organized program each day is not very informative, but it is the only diversion on offer. So I go hear information that is not that helpful or entertaining just to have something to do. At least they try. It is after all a cargo ferry.

We also struggle with food options. There is no where to get coffee until 8:30, and I have already been up for a few hours. Pastry is fine. I try to order waffles, but am told they only have enough batter for one. The good news is that they give it to me free of charge. Four days on board and the same limited menu is served each day with the same daily special. We can order reindeer sandwich, reindeer steak, fish, or a hamburger. While I like all of the options, eating eight meals with four choices is….well….monotonous.

The daily excitement occurs as ports come into view. Most are 15 minute stops. There is not enough time to disembark or explore. But there is plenty of time to snap a few pictures of places I would likely never otherwise see. Peering over the railing, I can watch the dock hands and get a glimpse of a life far removed from my own.

By nightfall, I am ready to head to the library for a game of battleship or rummikub. After dinner coffee, signals the day is coming to an end. Retreating to the cabin, I climb into the top bunk and snuggle into the comforter. The rocking of the ship is better than a lullaby. There is something about the sea air….