We dock in the cold, cold rain. Coming down the gangway, the wind blows water into our faces. My husband struggles into his rain suit while I wrestle with my umbrella. We try to follow directions to exit the docks into the town. In the blowing rain, it is unclear which way to go, so we pick a direction and take our chances.

At a fork in the road, the signs seem to contradict each other. We again follow the old adage, “when you come to a fork in the road take one”. Eventually we exit an alley between buildings and emerge between the waterfront and train tracks. The wind and rain pick up as we climb stairs to an overpass walkway into town. A small bridge gives a picturesque view of the small boat harbor. But it is too windy to linger or my umbrella may break.

Once in town, the rain stops and the wind abates. I am finally able to appreciate the quaint buildings. Bright yellows, reds, and greens cover business facades. We pass larger government buildings done in neoclassical style, but we keep up a fast pace. We are in search of the Nidaros Cathedral, a Norwegian pilgrimage site, and we are on a tight schedule.

This cathedral is the site of all royal weddings and christenings. It is the burial place of King Olav II, the patron saint of Norway. Construction started in 1070 A.D., making it the northernmost medieval cathedral in the world. The cathedral or “Domkirke” has been Lutheran since the Reformation.

It is a large and impressive structure, laid out in the familiar pattern of the cross. The flying buttresses, support the massive stone roof. Each area holds side chapels and stained glass masterpieces. It, like all great cathedrals, is awe inspiring. I pause to light a candle and give thanks for the health and recovery of our parents. I pray for peace and goodwill for humanity. I pray for our divided nation.

We slowly walk the perimeter, taking time to appreciate the stone work, the carvings, the paintings, and the furnishings. It is amazing what people have been able to achieve over the centuries. This place reminds us that humans are infinitely capable of beauty and greatness.

I find a small abandoned chapel and I stop to again pray for my country. I am saddened by the divisiveness and take a moment to unburden myself of the worry of it all. Refreshed, we head out to explore the old town.

We stop at the arched bridge. According to legend, if you kiss under the arch you will have lifelong happiness. We decide that it is a tradition we should support and pause for a quick kiss under each arch. The scenery is beautiful and the sun is actually shining. We attempt to dry out as we walk.

Most things in the old town sector are closed and our time is running short. So we walk and admire the old wooden buildings. We finally find the last bridge that can take us back to town and the harbor. Unfortunately, there is no time to stop for lunch. We quickly walk towards the harbor, dodging the hundreds of school children on the street. We notice that Norwegian children are often out and about in the towns. I am not sure when they are actually in class. Every day we pass preschoolers in bright yellow vests and students of all ages out exploring.

As we approach the bridge over the train tracks, the rain and wind return. We walk quickly in the cold as we return to the boat. I chuckle as we once again run the gauntlet of weather along the docks.

But, it is warm inside and time for lunch. I love the reindeer and lingonberry sandwich. I am having it again and I may have it a third or fourth time before we get off this boat. Who knew reindeer was so delicious? Happily munching away, I watch the lighthouses and mountains go by.

We decide that it would be fun to watch the world go by from the hot tub. It is 30 degrees, but the hot tub is warm. However, the winds pick up to over 40 and 50 miles per hour. The water blows into our eyes and nose. We sink further into the water to minimize exposed skin. It isn’t too bad, until we realize that we will need to get out into the ever increasing intensity of the wind. We can’t stay in here forever. We need to climb out of the hot tub and then down some stone (think river rocks) decorative steps and into an outdoor shelter to get our towels, shoes, and shirts. No one wants to go first. I decide to be brave.

We make it inside with shivering and laughter. I head straight the sauna and my husband to the blankets in the cabin. We each pick our preferred way to thaw. Outdoor hot tubbing on a moving boat in the arctic is clearly not for everyone. But it is definitely an adventure.