I am up early, charting our course. The sun is shining and the snow has stopped, at least for now. It is a beautiful day for exploring the arctic town of Tromso. We start our day at Polaria aquarium, solely based on the fact that it was one of the few places open earlier in the day.

Walking to Polaria from the bus station, we notice that Main Street has heated sidewalks so most of the walk is clear. In some areas, though, we navigate several inches of ice and snow. The streets are not heated and icy, so crossing traffic is interesting. But eventually we make it across town unscathed. Walking downhill to the entrance was more like a slip n slide.

We arrive just in time for the feeding of the seals. Long whiskers and expressive faces make the seals extremely popular. They swim and eat fish with abandon, oblivious to the watching crowd. Dozens of onlookers watch as they are weighed and perform training behaviors as part of wellness checks. Afterwards, they eat the ice that preserved their fish. I tease my husband that they may be related to him (white bearded, ice loving, and mischievous).

Polaria has great aquarium tanks and interactive technology. We spend a few hours learning about arctic wildlife. We play interactive games that teach us about food chains and habitat. Climate change maps encourage more responsible behavior from all of us.

After all that play time, we need nourishment, so we head across the street to the infamous Mack brewery pub, Ohallen. Founded in 1877, Mack’s claims to be the northernmost brewery in the world. The interior is warm and has a nautical vibe. It is warm and cozy, therefore a great place to rest.

Just down the street is Tromso cathedral. Situated on the main square, it is a hub of tourist group activity. Tour groups came and went with regularity. We step inside and find a quiet sanctuary. The simple wood interior and clean lines direct attention to the altar where Christ ascends in a somber portrait. The centerpiece is flanked by two stained glass windows. One window depicts a serpent twined on a cross. An interesting choice for a Christian house of worship.

At the back of the church, an illuminated globe provides opportunity to light a candle in prayer. Nearby, a tree for Ukrainian peace is hung with paper doves. Next to that, we are invited to decorate a tree with tied colored strings for world healing. I linger awhile to send my prayers and tie my string.

A pedestrian only zone across the street from the church is lined with interesting shops and restaurants. While it isn’t exactly crowded, a surprisingly steady stream of tourists and locals line the walkways. I am sure that I would not like the summer crowds.

After unsuccessfully shopping for souvenirs (things are too expensive), I do buy some crampon spikes to slip over my shoes. I am tired of slipping on the ice. They work like a dream. After my big purchase, we stop at a chocolate shop. I buy a chocolate lemon macaron. My husband gets his bag of chocolates. The candies are beautiful works of art. I almost hate eating my lovely macaron….but not enough to keep me from wolfing it down.

Revived from our snack, we take the bus across the bridge to the Arctic Cathedral. I have been looking forward to this all day. It is one of the things I most want to see in Tromso as the stained glass and architecture are highlighted in the articles I read to prepare for the trip.

The views from the outside are spectacular. The bridge, the fjord, and the mountains make a spectacular backdrop. My spikes make the climb up the hill so much easier. I am no longer worried about sliding headlong into traffic as I walk along the ice covered roadways.

The entrance to the church is $8.00 (800 NOK). It seems silly to charge entrance to a church, but there are likely maintenance costs so I happily pay. Happily, until I enter. The “cathedral” is only a large, plain white room. The pews are reminiscent of my 1970’s childhood. There is a large stained glass window at one end but the view is obstructed by three modern chandeliers. I walk to the front and kneel down to see the glass.

My husband says he feels robbed and I agree. We have been in the church exactly two minutes and have exhausted the view. I find an interesting prayer circle in the back of the church. The colorful wooden beads suggest different prayers. After several minutes, I see a sign that says photo display and restrooms. I figure that an $8.00 admission should at least cover a bathroom break (public toilets in Norway have been credit card controlled in many places). The photo display consists of a few framed photos of the Northern lights in a hallway by the bathrooms that otherwise looks like a locker room. Needless to say, as much as I love visiting churches, this one does nothing for me. It feels like a sterile, Hollywood soundstage, not a place of worship.

And so, we walk back down the slippery hill, get back on the bus, and ride all the way to our neighborhood. After the disappointing cathedral, I want to find a new adventure. So, I talk my husband into walking to a shopping mall nearby. At least we try to walk there.

The GPS keeps directing us to turn where there is no road. Upon closer inspection, I find footprints over an eight foot snow bank. Emboldened with my spikes, I climb the bank. I see what I assume is a park. Snow reaches halfway up the lamp posts. The tracks I can see are several inches deep. A no go without snow shoes. Ten minutes slugging through several feet of snow would surely take at least 30 minutes. It would also ensure we were wet and freezing cold. A snug evening at home with pizza and a movie suddenly seems like a great choice.