Last days in a place are always a little bitter sweet. I spend a little time either trying to figure out if there are places we need to see before we go or places we need to revisit. Today feels random. I want to return to Frogner park to get a picture of the “angry baby”. Somehow when we were there before, I forgot to get a picture. Perhaps I was overwhelmed by the hundreds of statues surrounding it.

It is very cold this morning and I underdressed for the weather. The coffee shop doesn’t open until 10:00. So I freeze in the park. I won’t miss the cold weather or the late coffee service, but the public walking spaces will definitely be missed. I wish I lived in a walkable city. There aren’t that many options at home.

Since we are in Frogner, we decide to visit the Oslo City Museum. It is in an old mansion. As a local history museum, it has some interesting features. Artifacts from “Kristiana” line the first galleries. Paintings and documents tell the story of the old city. We see smiles and the excess of the 1920’s. We hear tales of fire and rebuilding. When the Nazis take over, the city shuts down. Then came hardship and rebuilding. It is the story of resilience and resistance in a city I have come to love.

Afterwords, we walk through vibrant neighborhoods and arrive at Aker Brygge. The harbor is quiet today. It is cold and damp. The food trucks that usually line the corner have stayed home today. The harbor feels cold and empty. So we walk on, along the docks, until we reach the Astrup Fearnley gallery.

I don’t really like modern art. So the Astrup Fearnley is on my “only if you have time” list. Looks like I have time after all. My husband sits this one out. I am on my own.The first gallery makes me question my choice. Enlarged and cut up objects are regrouped like grotesque paper dolls. As usual, I don’t get it.

In the next gallery, a golden Michael Jackson sits with a monkey while a troll strolls the gallery with gum stuck to his foot. I don’t get it. Down the hall, an area with chairs all in a row sit in muted grey with artificial clouds hanging above. It reminds me of airlines and I begin to think about flight check in…and suddenly a large plastic door slides open (think sideways plane window shade). The inside is brightly lit and a large plush unicorn lays looking back at me. What on earth? Before I can react, the door closes. I have to get out of here….

Outside, the weather has thankfully improved. I want to walk along the Akerselva one last time. The river runs along its course, by former factories now converted into shops, and over waterfalls. Not many people are out today so we walk easily along the paths. I won’t miss dodging electric scooters. But I will miss this ritual of afternoon walks through the neighborhood.

Grunerlokka has been a home away from home. Goodbye preschool children in your yellow vests. Goodbye favorite park. Goodbye botanical garden with your glorious blooms. It is time to pack. Our adventure is almost over. The sun is setting for us in Oslo.