Derry Girl: Travel Goals


I love the television series “Derry Girls”. The sitcom follows the antics of five friends during the 1980’s in Derry, Northern Ireland. It makes light of coming of age in a town rocked with sectarian violence. Five friends rely on each other as the struggle to make sense of a world that makes no sense.

So visiting Derry requires me to participate in the full Derry Girl experience at the Tower Museum. The Quinn living room “set” is available in all of its faded glory. Nicola Coughlan’s school uniform sits in pride of place. I perused scripts and props, and I even got to try on the green jacket….making me an official Derry girl.

After the museum experience, we walk the top of the wall encircling the old city. There are cannons and churchyards. We walk past shops and parks. About halfway around the wall walk, we find a giant mural immortalizing Erin, Orla, Clare, Michelle, and James.

As we walk, I think about my conversation with a local man who lived through the “troubles”. He told me about towns along the border that were bombed and friends that lost their lives. “For what?” He asked. “For what?”

I have no answers but the questions are heavy on my mind as I enter the Free Derry quarter. During the 1960’s, 70’s, and 80’s this Catholic sector was ground zero for political violence. Ulster forces battled the IRA for control, with residents often caught in the crossfire. On Bloody Sunday, 26 unarmed peaceful civilian protestors were shot. Many of the injured were fleeing or attempting to help the wounded. 14 died as a result of the conflict.

Murals here bear witness to the tragedy. It took almost forty years for official recognition that the acts were unjustified. It is a city that has seemingly come to uneasy terms with its past.

I don’t know why politics and religion are so often excuses to forget our shared humanity. I don’t know how “us” vs. “them” devolves into atrocities. I sit at the peace statue and I pray for peace and understanding to prevail. I pray that we fight our base instincts and instead practice empathy.

With much to think about, we head for the coast. The sunshine, blue sky, and surf calms and soothes. The problems that humans create seem far removed amid the timeless pull of the ocean.

We stand on the farthest point North. How many ships rounded this head on their way to America? How many immigrants took their last look at home as they sought refuge from poverty and violence?

I stand at the beautiful shore and troubles seem far away. Derry is calm, but America is in turmoil. But today, I am a Derry girl. I smile in the face of issues I didn’t cause and can’t control. I will rely on family and friends and take life as it comes. A smile and friends make even the hardest times bearable.