When the kids said they wanted to go to Ireland to hike, we gladly rented a farmhouse. I picked a part of the country known for iconic hikes. We went earlier and spent a few weeks exploring counties Donegal, Mayo, Leitrim, and Fermanagh. It is beautiful country with miles of walking and hiking trails.

We deliberately waited to take some of the hikes that were highly regarded or looked most interesting to do with my daughter and son in law. Among the dozen reserved for a family hike was the Devils Chimney hike. It promised waterfalls and brilliant views over Glencar.

First we stopped at Glencar Lake and did the easy waterfall walk. It was beautiful scenery on a beautiful morning. After a long wait for coffee at the local cafe, we headed up the mountain. For days I had been eyeing the waterfall on the side of the mountain from the highway. We headed up the trail for a more intimate look.

There were donkeys and roosters along the trail. At some point the roosters blocked the trail and demanded we follow at their waddling pace. The donkeys were completely disinterested. We climbed on, gaining elevation.

At some point, my husband said “we won’t see a waterfall, the creek bed looks dry”. I couldn’t comprehend how a waterfall I had watched for days could just disappear. But was we topped the trail to the lookout…..no waterfall. To add insult to injury, it started to rain.

There were beautiful views of the lake and an old growth “fairy forest”. We found shamrocks and moss covered trees. Giant ferns lined the path, but I was stunned that I came to see a waterfall that had vanished over night. We made it to the car damp but undaunted.

The day was young. Two trails in and we decided to try another. So we headed around Lough Gill to Slishwood Forest. This is Yeats country. I think of his verse as we drive around the lake and park. It stays with me as we hike around the lake.

“I will arise and go now, and go to Innisfree,

And a small cabin build there, of clay and wattles made;

Nine bean-rows will I have there, a hive for the honey-bee,

And live alone in the bee-loud glade.

And I shall have some peace there, for peace comes dropping slow,

Dropping from the veils of the morning to where the cricket sings;

There midnight’s all a glimmer, and noon a purple glow,

And evening full of the linnet’s wings.

I will arise and go now, for always night and day

I hear lake water lapping with low sounds by the shore;

While I stand on the roadway, or on the pavements grey,

I hear it in the deep heart’s core.

I understand how this country could get inside your soul and cause a longing to just linger here indefinitely. But my hiking buddies are feeling quite as poetic and it is long past lunch time.

I distribute some easy peelers (tangerines) and Tayto crisps to hold us over. We hike the boardwalk section to another stunning lake view before heading back over the mountain.

My people are getting hangry. I just want to hike on….and on some more. I love this land. I love the forest smell and the way the lights floats through the trees. I love the crunch of pine needles under my feet and the bird song.

Hike onward. But it will need to be another day. My crew needs food and Sligo calls. A local foodie hangout wins our business. There is a view of the river from the window and branches hang overhead as indoor decorations. While we eat amazing food and relive our adventures, I am dreaming of our next hike…. It can’t be helped. I hope I always want to hike on.