Rolling down highway 40, our big rig pulls into Amarillo Texas in late afternoon. After miles of rough road and cross winds, the rv park is a welcome relief. We quickly set camp and take a walk around the park. Like most RV parks along the interstates, this on is tightly packed and full of people just passing through.

We sit by a small fountain in the park for a brief rest from the road and to check email. Five hours on the interstate is long enough, especially when we are towing. So sitting outside, even in this crowded park, is a welcome respite. But soon I am restless. I haven’t been feeling that well and I am still a little keyed up from the road.

I noticed that we are just a few miles from the Cadillac Ranch. We have driven by on other trips West, but have never stopped. I have never thought looking at spray painted cars that are stuck in the dirt was a great detour. But we have a few hours to kill and we need to go get dinner. Why not see what it is all about? I will likely never be any closer.

We park on the shoulder of what was probably the original stretch of Route 66. There is a small gate with a passable path. We walk down a dirt road and see a trailer selling spray paint and souvenirs. There is a steady stream of people walking to and from the cars in the distance and several in line making purchases. Must be big business if there is merch.

As we approach, a man hands me a can of spray paint and tells me to have fun. I look confused so he says with a smile, “I have two teenagers and they aren’t allowed to take it home.” I smile back (one knowing parent to another) and thank him for his thoughtfulness.

Armed with lime green paint, we spray away. First our initials make it onto a fender. Then we move on to messages written for photographic purposes. Then my husband writes a few secretly coded thoughts, and on it goes until we are out of paint.

The wind is unrelenting and the sun is setting. But we are laughing and taking selfies like a pair of unruly teenagers. I get the appeal suddenly. It is cathartic and fun to paint on cars. Who knew I would take up tagging as a retirement hobby? (Okay, this the first and likely last time). But you are never too old to try new things.

With the setting sun, we head to Amarillo’s famous landmark, the Big Texan. Along the way, we pass the 2nd amendment cowboy tipping his hat to the passersby. I wish I knew why Texans have to put the name of their state on virtually everything. It is not likely that we will forget we are in Texas. If it doesn’t say Texas, it likely has the Texas flag pasted on it.

The Big Texan Steakhouse is crawling with people. The sprawling complex has a restaurant, a gift shop, a candy shop, and any number of side rooms. We get a table in the main room where we can see the stage. For $99.00 you get the privilege of trying to eat a 64oz steak and all the fixings. After they seat you on the stage, they start a timer. If you can eat it all in one hour, your meal is free. If not you have had an experience.

A man is doing his best to win his free steak. Meanwhile a strolling Texas swing band is roaming the restaurant and filling the chaos with lovely music. I see a child get his meal served in a cowboy hat and think about the last time we were here. Our adult son was four. I smile as I remember his smiling face and how he wore that hat all over the southwest with a sheriff’s badge pinned to his shirt.

I am content. At least I think I am until the food comes, and suddenly I feel incredibly anxious. I can’t eat. I just want to be away from the crowds. This travel day is confusing. On the road, I can’t wait to stop. Parked at the rv, I want to go explore. I visit a tourist trap I don’t really want to visit, but with spray paint in hand I want to stay longer. I find a fun restaurant with live music which I normally love, and I can’t wait to leave.

Oh well, feelings come and go. My chauffeur and travel partner, thankfully is with me for the long haul and is used to my shenanigans. He calmly eats his steak and asks what I want to do next. After a day of iconic Texas, I am ready for a hot shower and then bed.