In the Arizona desert just South of Tucson is the Mission San Xavier del Bac, known as the “White Dove of the Desert. This historic 18th-century Spanish Catholic mission located on the Tohono O’odham Nation reservation was built between 1783-1797. It is the oldest intact European structure in Arizona and a National Historic Landmark. Many consider it the finest example of Spanish architecture in the United States.

I am a fan from the minute we pull into the parking lot. The architecture is stunning, despite the scaffolding covering part of the exterior. There are Tohono O’odham tribal members barbecuing at the end of the lot, just a church fundraiser. I like the vibe. It reminds me that people always have more in common than we think. Our local Catholic Church fires up its grill every Sunday.

I am anxious to visit the church, but first we visit a complex of tribal gift shops and snack vendors. I love buying local and a native mosquito bite remedy seems like a useful purchase. So does fry bread. After dropping our purchases off in the truck, we finally cross the hard packed dirt to the church.

I’m not sure how it is possible, but the interior of the church is even more stunning than the exterior. People are actively engaged in worship. So I sit where I can unobtrusively look and then pray. I have to remind myself that this is a working parish that has been the tribes spiritual home for over 250 years. Mothers beg for protection for their children. A man sits beside me and quietly weeps. I am moved and pray for their unspoken needs. God hears the cries of the broken hearted.

After my moments of prayer, we leave the chapel and head to areas that hold important artifacts from the church history. There are vestments and chalices sitting next to tribal baskets. Dating from its founding in 1692.

The place strikes me as a beautiful blend of old world European elegance and native simplicity. Amazing paintings are somehow elevated by simple wood carvings with the finest craftsmanship. A mausoleum houses a glass encased wooden carving of Saint Francis Xavier. Locals and pilgrims leave tiny tokens (Milagros) as they pray and ask for miracles.

The lovely cloister walk and peaceful courtyard reminds me that this is working Franciscan monastery. The good fathers have been here since 1767. They have survived Apache raids, fires, wars, and even a change in country of residence.

Eventually, I have to tear myself away from this gem. We walk up the small hill near the church and walk the stations of the cross. I keep one eye on the dramatic vistas and one eye on the lookout for rattlesnakes. I imagine that sums up this special place properly. One eye on God and his wonders and one eye on the harsh reality of life in a hostile environment. For 350 years, the people have been faithful. Despite many hardships, beauty remains.

“Trust (lean on, rely on, and be confident) in the Lord and do good; so shall you dwell in the land and feed surely on His faithfulness, and truly you shall be fed.”
‭‭Psalm‬ ‭37‬:‭3‬ ‭

“He wants me to help those in Zion who are filled with sorrow. I will put beautiful crowns on their heads in place of ashes. I will anoint them with olive oil to give them joy instead of sorrow. I will give them a spirit of praise in place of a spirit of sadness. They will be like oak trees that are strong and straight. The Lord himself will plant them in the land. That will show how glorious he is.”
‭‭Isaiah‬ ‭61‬:‭3‬