In Kyoto, it seems there are temples at every turn. We are actually looking for something to eat when we stumble on the Higashi Hongan Ji Temple. We think we are walking toward food trucks, but the tents and trucks are part of a tea festival and we don’t have tickets. It is a bust. Instead we find an ancient and impressive temple complex just across the street. That is the magic of getting lost in Kyoto.

Suddenly, I forget I am hungry. A whole new world awaits. There are tall gates that make me feel like I am entering a forbidden city. The buildings are massive.

After a ceremonial hand washing at the entrance fountain, we head into the complex. The dark teak is inlaid with white stone. I take off my shoes and climb the stairs into the temple. We are invited to sit as a priest says prayers on behalf of a family. The chanting is melodic and hypnotic.

My eyes don’t know where to look. There is a thick tatami mat to cushion my knees. Incense burns throughout the inner sanctuary. Another priest drums rhythmically to accompany the chanting. There are delicate paintings and gold fixtures. There are also several versions of Buddha.

After sitting for a while to fully take in the experience, we grab our shoes and continue on. An exterior portico connects the buildings. We wander through a variety of chapels. There is a large rope made of human hair. A sign tells us that the women of Kyoto sacrificed their locks to make the rope in a time when the rope was desperately needed and other fibers strong enough were unavailable. Apparently the construction of the temple’s two main halls, the Founder’s Hall and the Amida Hall required the hoisting and moving of massive wooden beams, but obtaining rope strong enough for the job was impossible. So the women cut off their hair to make a rope strong enough to complete the job and temple construction continued. Sounds strange and yet I am staring at the rope.

After walking through a low tunnel, we reach a small museum and congregation hall. There are exhibits about the history of the temple and its members. We are the only visitors.

After an hour of cultural immersion, we exit the compound. I look up and see multiple storks on the roof. One stork is a symbol of good luck. I have to believe this is a portent of an excellent trip, at least that is what I tell myself. A half dozen storks on the roof of the temple at the very least should mean that we can finally find food.

(Fyi-We did actually find an incredible wood fired pizza near Kyoto Station. The Gorgonzola infused meat pie did not disappoint.)