After almost two weeks exploring Tokyo and surrounding areas, we decide to travel farther afield. The bullet train will take us to Nagano province (about a three hour trip one way). Our destination is the mountain town of Matsumoto. I am excited to see the “Black Crow”, also known as Matsumoto Castle.

Built in the late 1500’s, the castle is considered a National Treasure of Japan. It has a long history of control by various rotating warlords, including the Tokugawa shoguns during the Edo period. It is a fortress with a historic past, but it is also incredibly beautiful. At least that is what I expect, as I happily munch veggie straws from the train’s snack cart. [As a random side note: This snack comes in a small round green can with a cartoon giraffe as a mascot. The crunchy straws are addictively delicious. I love them! I will never know what they are called because I can’t read Japanese and Google translate can’t pick up words along a round surface. ]

Exiting the train station, we walk through a picture perfect town. The streets are laid out to align with the river that flows down from the mountains. We follow the downtown streets until we come to a busy intersection at a bridge over the river and then walk alongside the flowing water toward the mountains. Signs tell us that another ten minutes will bring us to the castle. My husband says he will believe it when he sees it. But the joke is on him….

I do see it. I am not prepared for its silhouette across the moat with its backdrop of cherry blossoms. It is breathtaking. Near the castle there are men offering rickshaw rides. Older adults offer free tours of the castle grounds. But I only have eyes for the Black Crow. We proceed to a small ticket office and look for an entrance.

Warriors guard the entrance to the castle grounds as they have done for centuries. We must be deemed worthy (by virtue of the ticket stub in my hand), because we are allowed entry. Once inside the castle walls, I stand in the inner courtyard garden just staring with my mouth open in a goofy grin. The Black Crow does not disappoint.

At the castle entrance, ninjas require me to practice my readiness pose before we can enter. Once inside, we climb stairs made with massive wooden beams. Since we are required to remove our shoes, I feel a little off balance. The distance between steps is wide and my socks are slippery on the slick wood.

We climb higher and higher. There are murder holes and windows for archers. There are covered porches and tiled roofs. Looking across the city, I feel like a queen in her castle.

Inside, there are displays of weapons and daily life. We take our time and drink in the historic otherworldliness of the space. I have never experienced anything quite like it.

I feel foolish making my way back down the stairs. I go slowly to avoid a fall. Socks on bare wood are very slick. I note that a Japanese lady twenty years older and half as tall as I am is descending at three times my pace. Perhaps she is used to slick, steep stairs with no hand rails. I guess I am used to a more controlled environment. (Actually, I am vividly remembering all the times I fell down the stairs at my grandmother’s house after running in socked feet down her wooden staircase. I am not as limber as I was as a child.)

I survive the climbing experience and celebrate by taking photos with the ninjas in the courtyard. We pose in our fiercest warrior position. They look intimidating and I look like Vanna White getting ready to turn a letter for someone who wants to buy a vowel. Oh, well …. the locals are getting a laugh at my expense and that makes me happy.

It seems important to make my way to the trees, for a more reflective moment. I walk along the moat and watch the castle’s reflection in the water. The pink blossoms of the Sakura trail their flowing blossoms along the water’s edge. The green willows weep into the ripples with the breeze. It is surreal; like I am time traveling. The Black Crow is magical and truly a national treasure. I give thanks for this moment. It feels timeless.