Matsumoto, Japan is the kind of town that I quickly come to love. It is quirky. And boy do I love quirky. It has history and culture and food. Apparently, the town mascot is a frog. I love that we keep running into frog statues in all shapes and sizes.

We have spent the morning at the “black crow“, also known as Matsumoto Castle. It is historical and beautiful; wow is it breathtakingly beautiful. But as we make our way back across town, I notice the town has a lot more to offer than just the castle that I actually came here to see. Everywhere I look there is something of interest, and the mountains in the background provide a picturesque setting. Bonus!

We have worked up an appetite climbing the many stories of the castle, so we stop at the Mount Desert Island Ice Cream Shop. There is nowhere to sit, so I wander while I wait for my black crow ice cream (named in honor of the castle). Next door is a lovely temple, the Yohashira Jinja shrine. Locals say it is a powerful place for fulfilled wishes. I can only say that it is also a peaceful place to wait for my sweet treat (which is either made with charcoal or squid ink I think). I try not to think about it, and wish for something that tastes good. I am happy to report that my wish is granted. My teeth stain black, but my belly is happy.

After our ice cream break, we are ready to visit the Matsumoto City Museum. Just as the name implies, we take a walk through the history of the city. The galleries have artifacts from the feudal period. I see a palanquin (norimono) and wonder if I could ever let other people carry me somewhere I could walk myself. I don’t think I could, but different times I suppose with different norms.

In the middle of the gallery is a parade float from the annual city festival. It is a ship made up of figures painted a riot of colors with a large dragon as a masthead. The celebrations have happened for centuries and continue ever onward.

There are galleries about logging, forestry, and water. There is a display on firefighting and toys. I don’t know why I am so fascinated by ordinary objects, but even with the rare finds, I always come away understanding that people (in every age and place) are more alike than different.

We have about four hours left to go wander the town. We decide to visit the Timepiece Museum. Sounds weird, but we were blown away with the treasures inside. There were clocks using water, fire, and sand. There were chandelier clocks, grandfather clocks, robotic clocks and novelty clocks. I really fell in love with the goldfish clock. Who doesn’t want to tell time with fish?

Afterwards we visit the nearby shopping street and find an infinite variety of frog souvenirs. If you collect frogs, this is your city. We walked through dusty antique shops, plant stores, and bakeries. It seems like many places aren’t open today. I can’t tell if it is the season, the day, or for some other reason; but most are closed. A sign on one door says “ do not enter if you don’t speak Japanese”. Point taken. My yen will go elsewhere.

I could not be in Matsumoto without visiting the Matsumoto City Museum of Art. It is home to Yayoi Kusama’s collection. She is famous for bright colors and the use of polka dots. Our elementary students loved studying and replicating her style.

I can’t believe I am here in her city walking through the brightly colored and slightly surreal galleries. I take my photo with the giant yellow pumpkin and feel like a child. Those feelings only grow larger as I walk into hallways full of cartoon like sculptures. I call them angry cats.

My husband has had enough walking and is waiting patiently outside. He is calmly doing word puzzles. I am buzzing with creative energy. We decide that our ice cream is wearing thin and we need nourishment.

Earlier we spotted an Irish pub in town. I am convinced no matter where we go in the world we are able to find one. This time, however it is closed. Instead, we duck into a small local place filled with local people enjoying happy hour and small plates. No one speaks English. We do not speak Japanese. I smile and point. Everything seems to be fried in tempura. Hopefully, what is under the tempura is tasty. Better not to think about it and just dive in. The waitress brings us the “special” appetizer. I have no idea what it is. I eat it. My husband surrenders his to me.

This is the best part of travel. No expectations, just fun exploring culture with friendly strangers. The waitress thankfully doesn’t mind that we are illiterate. She points to the price and we happily pay. The locals giggle at our ignorance. They wave goodbye as we walk to the train station.

We are still a little early, so we walk through the market at the train station. I learn that it is tradition for travelers to take home gifts of regional food. There is plenty of beautifully packaged food to be purchased. I gravitate to the fruit and candy, but there is also a wall of insects. I settle for a nice bottle of tea for the train. The only souvenir I need from Matsumoto are the memories. I love this little town.