I love zoos. At least I love them when they are modern, champion conservation, and have plenty of room for the animals. National zoos are usually stellar, so we didn’t want to pass up the opportunity to visit the National Zoo of Japan. We head to Ueno park, even though it is raining. We are only in Japan a few more days so this is our last chance.

Upon arrival, we discover that the park has intersecting paths and no discernible preferred route so we set off uphill to see the elephants. It is clear this is a very old zoo. The enclosures are small and some are not well kept. There are, however, lush gardens and plenty of statues of animals.

We wander around in the rain looking for bears. We find them pacing in the rain wanting to go back indoors. I understand their frustration. We can’t decide the best way tour to the rest of the zoo in the rain. Every possible route will require back tracking. I am already wet and decide a churro is what I need to forget the rain. The seals nod in approval.

We eat traditional Japanese lunch with rice and miso soup in the zoo cafeteria. We have to walk up steep stairs dodging excited children. At least I didn’t spill my soup. It warms me up and I have a great view of the rain. It is coming down much harder. But I have a full belly and am drying out.

We are surprised to find American buffalo and prairie dogs nearby. The rain doesn’t bother them at all, even though they are a long way from the prairie. We are all a long way from Kansas.

On the back half of the zoo, there is a large lake. Heron and other birds nest in the long grass and in dead trees. We watch their antics. Across the road, a cat performs acrobatics on a tile roof. How did he get up there?

I am excited to reach the panda exhibit. We have walked a long way only to discover….no pandas…sigh. But wait, a tiny red panda is taking a walk in the rain. He is a one panda parade. Jaunty and defiant, he prances back and forth in the rain. I approve of any creature who makes their own fun in less than optimal conditions.

We may have finished the exhibits. All I can see is the remainder of the lake walk ahead. There doesn’t appear to be any enclosures ahead. But surprisingly we encounter a long line outside a low brick building. This is the first time we have really noticed a crowd (other than at the restaurant). Why are people queued up at a long brick building beside the lake? We get in line. What is it? Not sure. A sign says it is a kinkajou exhibit. What is that? Not sure.

It is dark in the exhibit hall. I can’t see where we are going. There is a dim light behind the brush. A blur flies past. What was that? A kinkajou. Big eyes. Long tongue. Long tail. I’m still not sure what a kinkajou actually is, or why they are so popular in Japan. But now I have seen one…. At least as clearly as you can see anything in semi-darkness.

We exit at the far end of the zoo. The sky has finally decided to stop raining. The cherry blossom festival is still going on in Ueno park. There is an antique market and I look at interesting objects that will not fit in the suitcase.

The traditional singers chant and play small drums. I love live music, but this is not my cup of tea. Thankfully they have Cherry ice cream. I take my cone and stroll the pier lined with pinwheels. I can no longer hear the noise and am reveling with in the brightly colored spinning wheels along the water. I feel like a child and that is a good thing. Rainy days are made for walking through puddles and eating ice cream. And I saw a kinkajou after chatting with a prairie dog. Doesn’t get much better than that.