Today we planned to travel to Nagano to see the snow monkeys. But when we woke up, we just were not feeling like a long train ride in order to catch a bus in order to hike. Perhaps earlier in the trip it would have been worth it, but with only two days remaining in Tokyo, we want to stay closer to home.

So, we take a commuter train to Takao and then a smaller local train to the base of the mountain. I am told this where the locals come to experience nature. I hope to hike and to see some monkeys. But first, we have to get ourselves at least halfway up the mountain. The main mountain trails branch out from there, and the lower trails are muddy and steep.

To get mid-way up the mountain, we can choose between an incline train (funicular) or a ropeway (lift). We choose the ropeway. It looks pretty low to the ground so I am not alarmed when there is no safety bar. It starts out low and then we proceed past the point that we can see from the ticketing gate. The rope way goes higher and higher. It stretches up the mountain and out of sight. There is a net under me the entire way. But under the net is several hundred feet of nothing but air. I just sit really still and pretend I am in my kitchen chair and not dangling over chasms with no safety bar. My feet dangle and I try to be chill. Did I mention there is nothing in front of me. No belt. No lap bar.

At the rope line’s end, we are high on the mountain. The summit is higher still, but for now we enjoy the view. I stop at a local vendor and buy a teriyaki coated bread ball on a stick. I’m sure it has a fancy name, but it is just a messy dough ball. As we walk among old growth trees, I try to figure out how to hide the messy empty stick. There are no trash cans and there are monkeys. I hope they don’t like sticky teriyaki sauce.

We reach the monkey forest and pay a small fee to enter. I am immediately disappointed. I am behind very dirty plexiglass. It is smeared with dirt and everything else the monkeys can get their hands on. We climb stairs to a viewing platform. At least now we are not looking through poop. A man is standing in an enclosure with hundreds of monkeys. He is talking non-stop in Japanese. I try to use Google Translate but the renderings are ridiculous. We have no idea what he is saying. So we watch monkeys and watch the man amuse the other guests with gestures and smiles.

There are lots of baby monkeys. I watch their antics with more joy than their monkey mothers, who are not so amused. Some look bored. Others look tired. None look like they care that we are here. In fact, I am pretty sure they don’t even want to be here.

We walk up the mountain to a mountain shrine. Along the way we pass old growth trees. The monks consider Takao a sacred site. It feels special. The walkway is adorned with good luck symbols. They are even in the trees. Red lanterns line the path which continues ever upward.

The lower temple is delightful. Just inside the gates, we encounter the Tengu, a legendary long nosed mountain goblin. They are believed to be protectors of the mountain and the ancient Yakut-in Temple. The statues of the red, long-nosed Daitengu and the green-faced, beaked Karasu Tengu are a bit frightening. One is even winged like an avenging angel.

Just past the entry, people line up to step through a stone ring and ring a bell. I learn that the process symbolizes leaving the past and making a wish for a bright future. That is a tradition I can support. As I pass through the circle I give thanks for the good and let go of the worries. I ring the bell with prayers for good fortune and peace on Earth.

The mountain is still before me. I bid my husband farewell and start the upward climb. He will wait for me at the lower temple. Meanwhile, I will climb endless stairs. Up the first series of steps, there is a small temple complex. Up the second series of steps, I encounter mountain hiking. There are steep inclines through a dense forest. Just when I think I have arrived at a plateau, there are more stairs.

At the summit, old men lay on the ground with their shirts open to catch the breeze. They look exhausted. Others crowd together at the ice cream kiosk. Maybe they have the right idea. I just climbed a mountain. I deserve a treat and a bottle of water.

I hesitate. If I purchase a water, I will be carrying the bottle back to the train station. There are no trash cans on Takao. But I am thirsty and need to not look like I am dying when I take my selfie with the Takao Summit sign. I think I have to carry the bottle.

This is my second mountain conquest since I have been in Japan. If we stay much longer I will be a proper mountaineer. I feel accomplished and youthful.

After lots of lingering looks and summit selfies, I turn and head back down the mountain. I have no idea how long I have been gone. I don’t want my husband to start to worry. I also don’t want to navigate all those stairs in the twilight.

Back through the temple complexes I go. They look different on the descent. I notice statues and features I didn’t see going up the mountain. I probably didn’t have enough oxygen to notice. It is peaceful. While people are present for most of the trek, it feels private and intimate.

The trees whisper their greeting. A variety of Buddha greet me with extended hands. Bell and chimes tinkle in the breeze and the calming sounds of flowing water provide a soothing background. Before I know it, I am back to the main temple.

I find my husband happily chatting away. He has been reading and enjoying the Spring sun. Hand in hand, we head down the mountain. It was been a full day on the mountain.

Takao is an oasis just outside Tokyo. I had a mountain and monkey adventure without having to take the train across the country. If I lived in Tokyo this would be a regular hiking destination. Takao is truly special. The Tengu (if they are the protectors of the forest) must be proud.