Prisoner of Hopes


  • Manspread: It Has That Effect On Me

    Whew, this day! I leave the house at 2:30 am to drive an hour to the airport to catch a 5:30 flight. I am pleasantly surprised that the airport shuttle driver is at my car almost immediately. He insists that I allow him to carry my bags. He is cheerful and it is contagious.

    I waltz into the terminal and immediately deflate when I see the crowd. There is a ridiculously long tsa line for 3:45 in the morning. This time of year the lines are filled with vacationers who are excited. They are talking loudly, and seemingly have no understanding of airport protocols. Three older men in front of me seem baffled that they are asked to remove their belts at the security check point. Why do they seem shocked? The combined metal from their buckles could be molded into a good size statue. The bald one pulls his belt off with the flair of Indiana Jones cracking his bullwhip. He almost takes off my nose.

    The airport makes for a noisy and most annoying morning. I like quiet contemplation and instead it is a circus. To compensate, I smile and talk to small children who are cranky because it is way too early for any of us to be up. And that is when I notice, not one, not two, not three, but four fathers sprawled out in the waiting area seats like they are on their personal sofas. They play on their phones and growl at their wives. The poor women try to entertain babies and chase toddlers with absolutely no help. And to add insult to injury….endless and careless, oblivious, manspread.

    These dudes are taking up not only their own seats but also half of their wive’s seats and also half of whomever’s seat is unlucky enough to be sitting on the other side of them. Mustache man flings back an arm so he can hold his phone up higher. It forces his wife sideways. She is already sitting perched on the edge of a chair like a bird ready to be pushed out of the nest. She has a child on her lap trying to bottle feed, while she hunches over playing cars with the three year old on the floor at her feet. She has a bag strapped to her back, a bottle under her chin, and their tickets between her teeth. Sweat pants complains that his wife is letting junior be too noisy. Hey, a guy needs his sports center at 4:00 am. Am I right? She comforts both with the same soothing tones. It is too much for me, even if it is not my business.

    I see the space taken and the space ceded. I see the mom pulling the wagon and the bags with one hand and juggling a baby with the other. Dad rushes to a seat and leaves them behind. He chooses a spot that is impossible to navigate with a wagon and all the baby gear. I see him lay down with hands behind his head and eyes closed while mom stacks and restacks the bags and repositions the wagon in a quiet corner. Both her babies apparently need their rest.

    Trying to unsee what is transpiring around me, I do some quiet computer work. I forget everything but email. Boarding time comes and goes. No explanation is offered for the delay. The crowd gets restless. Crew members begin deplaning. No explanations. People line up. We are told boarding is delayed and to wait. We wait and wait some more. Lines grow longer. No explanations.

    Crew seem unconcerned that we are a half hour past boarding. There is no word to the passengers about what is happening. They gate agents and pilots laugh and talk amongst themselves. The passengers are not laughing. There is actual chaos when we reach a point of no return. Over half the plane needs to be rebooked. We cannot make our connecting flights. We still have no explanations.

    I have never seen an airline make flight changes in order, based on destination, but that is the their plan. We are told to wait until our city is called. They call Honolulu, Seattle, Boise. We wait. I won’t say patiently. That would be a lie. But we are somewhat orderly…..until…The bro boys flood the counter. Knocking between people with their bags, the tech team rushes forth. Elbows out they crash through the line. This ensures that everyone sees they are on the phone with customer support, that they are loudly complaining that their city has not been called, and that they demand recourse. Their angrily towed roller boards (wheeled suitcases) ram into people unlucky enough to be caught in their wake. The bros loudly proclaim that there are five of them traveling to an important project together and need priority.

    Never mind that there are fifty people who are headed somewhere that also need to be rerouted. Forty-five of us are in line ahead of them, at least we were until their elbow invasion. All fifty of us have missed our connection. Five grown men are postering and blustering like overgrown toddlers. The entire rebooking process shuts down while the staff deals with the tantrum. Brocentric meltdown: Eventually they calm and are sent back in line where they call airline help lines, threaten, flatter and beg.

    Eventually, I am rebooked on another flight. It is two hours past when I should have left. I am physically and emotionally exhausted. The new flight is also delayed by fifteen minutes. I am quietly dealing with self regulation. Breath in … Breath out…

    I must look like I want to talk (I don’t). A middle age man decides that he should entertain me with everything he knows about life. I try to be polite. I smile and nod. I pretend to read. I look at my phone until…. Mansplaining. The guy wants to tell me how to use the app on my phone. He wants to tell me how to get the best deal on phones and on planes. He wants to tell me why his backpack is better. He wants to tell me how to dress for a trip. Seriously…..On and on and on. I am well and truly exhausted. I may snap. I just need on the plane and away from mansplaining.

    I sigh when I am seated. Maybe things are looking up. Who cares if the baggage tracker is telling me my bags were loaded to San Diego when I am going to San Jose? Who cares if the giant man in front of me sits down by throwing himself against his seat at full force and sliding down the seat back? Surely if the seat snaps and injures me, they will give me a free flight, right? I can’t worry about that. It is 8:00 am and I have been up for 7 hours already.

    I just want to sleep for a few hours. I am somehow seated in the last row of the plane due to the unexpected rerouting. My seat does not recline, but the giant man’s does. I’m pretty sure his seat isn’t ever supposed to lean back that far. I think I will just close my eyes. It is not as obnoxious if I can’t see it.

    I have my eyes blissfully closed and then I hear it. The teenager in the window seat is going to be sick. The gags are unmistakable. We quickly rummage for the little white sick bags in the seat pockets. The gagging doesn’t stop. The girl is young, scared and very polite. She is as white as a sheet and ready to cry.

    I am in the last row aisle seat so I have a direct sight line to the flight crew. I tell them what is happening. The attendant doesn’t even look up from his phone. I unbuckle and walk into the galley. He tells me we haven’t reached altitude and to sit back down. I tell him the whole back of the plane is about to be a hazmat recovery scene if he can’t come up with more sick bags and that I would gladly trade him seats if he would like to do something about it. He hands me a trash bag. A literal trash bag. I get towels from the toilet.

    The girl’s sickness goes on for over two hours. I assist when I can. She gets up, sits down, gets sick, and tries to nap in between. Her mother is panicking. Dad is in another row and doesn’t bother to ask what might be happening. Another flight attendant brings wet wipes and a cool compress. I am handing out sick bags and wet paper towels while rethinking my life choices. As a retired school administrator, I am well equipped to handle a teenage crisis. Somehow we arrive at airport number two. I wish the family well and make a hasty exit.

    I have to walk a long way to my connection. I have twenty minutes to cross the airport. I try to walk on the moving conveyors to speed my trip. Theoretically, I can go faster. Oh wait….. At least three old guys are standing randomly in the middle of the walk way looking at their phones. Excuse me. A smile and slight movement to stand to the side. I can work with that. Excuse me. Stink eye and grumble. I can work with that. Excuse me. No acknowledgment. Excuse me. Not happening. I wait (there is no other choice), standing behind a guy who is blocking the walkway. He is a human wall with a bag on either side blocking the entire moving walkway…..making it a stand way.

    When the conveyor ends, he immediately stops and sets his bags down to check his phone for his gate number. I say a quick prayer and leap over his bags (it is a lucky and rare day that I am wearing sneakers). He looks up surprised as if he couldn’t imagine where I came from. He then sees the other old guys coming toward him on the conveyor. He kicks his bags out of the way to make a path for the approaching people. Unfortunately he kicked them into me… but at least he is trying…. Bless his heart.

    I jog on and make my final connecting flight. I settle in. There is an open middle seat and I have earphones. Hurray! Except….the guy in the window seat is asleep with mouth ajar. So what if he snores. I have headphones. A few minutes later, his leg is somehow stretched across the middle space and…. his toe is touching my toe. Of all of the things that have happened today, this is minor. This is NOT an issue…..except it is all I can think about. Manspread! Ahhhhhh!

    KEEP your toe to yourself. You, you, you manspreader! Hey guy across the aisle, you are not riding a horse right now. Close your legs and give the woman sitting by you some room, manspreader!Dude in front of me, your elbows have probably cracked your seat mates ribs the way you keep stretching. She does not want your arms on her, manspreader! Guy. I don’t want to see you crack your knuckles in my face. manspreader! Bro…. I don’t care about your next big deal. I know we have WiFi, make your call in an inside voice. Mansplainer! My man…. I am holding on by a thread here. Get some headphones, I don’t want to listen to your video game. I need my space……

    I have to get off of this plane. I can’t unsee it. I can’t unhear it. I can’t take one more toe tap or one more elbow.

    The pilot announces we are arriving early. Thank you, God. Crisis averted. Now hopefully I won’t have to spend the next hour listening to someone tell me why my bags are vacationing in San Diego while I am working in San Jose.

    I stand up full of hope. Whack! A backpack hits me in the face and a brief case takes out my knees. The old guy one row up and across the aisle stands up abruptly. He tosses his bags behind him, because he is ready to go….even though the aisle is already full of people standing, he claims his space. He is the manosphere.

    I fall backwards and straddle the arm of my seat to keep upright. I catch the eye of the man behind me. He winces. He saw it. Maybe for the first time. He can’t unsee it. He keeps looking at Mr Oblivious and looking at me. He is overwhelmed. Manspread has that effect on people.

    Eventually, I find myself at the hotel. I have decompressed. My bags have made their way to San Jose along with my swimsuit. They are a few hours late but we are happily reunited. My missed meetings are forgotten. Life is good. I celebrate by taking a dip in the hot tub.

    I am relaxed with my eyes closed. The jets feel great on my back. A large man pushing a walker makes his way over. He lowers himself into the water beside me. I move to make room. He stretches out his arms along the sides. I make more room. He closes his eyes and puts in earphones. At least they cover the ear hair. Eww. Why did I notice that? I close my eyes and then I hear it. He is singing…badly…..loudly to the music in his earbuds. I decide I have had quite enough…..manspread has that effect on me.

  • Texas Tech Museums: Rural Road Trips

    Somehow we find ourselves at Texas Tech in Lubbock, Texas. It is the day before game day in a state where football is king. It seems like the whole campus has showed up at a local watering hole that also sells the best burgers in town. We wait in a very long line to order and then wait to find a table. Eventually we are seated near what I infer is the coaches table. I have no idea about the team, the coaches, or the game tomorrow, but the energy in the room is high. Sports talk is saturating the place. It has plenty of local color.

    I try to tune out the athletic overload and come up with an afternoon game plan (pun intended). We are in town as a stop over on a long rv trip. Our stop was planned based on geography and drivable miles. We have no idea what Lubbock has to offer, so it is a pleasant surprise to learn that the university has a variety of free museums. Even better, they are just across the street. It is a nice that we have a few new things to do in the hours between now and our planned departure tomorrow.

    Eclectic doesn’t begin to describe the collection at the Texas Tech museum. I wander past a display of 1980’s fashion (the shoulder pads and color blocking bring back a lot of memories) and into a gallery of prehistoric giant crocodiles. Nearby a gallery of electric guitars overlooks a hall of dinosaurs.

    The art galleries are equally eclectic. Lucille Ball dances with Frank Sinatra in a whirl of pointillism dots. Southwest Santa rides a driftwood donkey. Native women peer out of portraits, looking graceful and sorrowful. Cattle create photographic dust clouds. The art pieces are not “old masters” but they are clearly someone’s masterpiece. Most exceed my ability. There are a few abstract pieces I am sure I could replicate.

    The museum is a welcome diversion. Near the exit, an advertisement for a university facility across town catches my eye. Apparently there is a lake site that was once a large prehistoric settlement. Old bones and history? Sounds like something we should see.

    We meet elephants in the parking lot. Or maybe they are supposed to be mammoths? I don’t see a lake. I do see a lot of prairie grass. Hmmm.

    At the visitor center, they explain that the site was ancient and had been formed around a large lake. They have been excavating the settlements, retrieving cooking utensils and animal bones. They speculate that the settlements could be seasonal hunting camps. Today, the university protects the land and has maintained public walking trails.

    The college student working reception casually mentions that there is a large prairie dog town. I am not sure that I let them finish before I was out the door and headed down the trail. I love prairie dogs.

    They are happy and vocal. They watch out for each other. They bark with their whole body. I get tickled watching them jump and shake as they warn the town that there is stranger danger.

    We have to walk further than I thought to find the colony. It is dry and I wish I had remembered water. Even though it is fall and the air is cool, the sun is hot and there is no shade.

    The land looks and feels desolate to this hillbilly girl who is most at home in the forests and wooded hill country. I notice the prairie dogs don’t seem to mind. They are happily munching on buffalo squash. I celebrate the fact that nature finds a way. But buffalo squash won’t fill our bellies and we need water.

    Texas Tech has proved itself a good steward. Our day of rest in Lubbock has passed quickly and enjoyably thanks to the Texas Tech public spaces. If you find yourself in central Texas, stop in for a visit.

  • Ranch Remembered: Rural Road Trips Texas

    It is our first day in Lubbock, Texas. We have parked overnight in a sketchy rv park. Our neighbors appear to live here year round and aren’t too particular about the gravel patch that passes for a yard. But ever the optimist, I suggest we head a few blocks away to a local weekend outdoor market. I do love a good market. If nothing else, there is sure to be homemade bread. There are also live animals, porcupine quill toothpicks, and a variety of unidentifiable homemade objects.

    The baked goods and giggles made the stop worthwhile. With full bellies, we cross town and park the pickup at the National Ranching Heritage Center located near Texas Tech. I am surprised that there is no admission fee. There also seems to be a conference going on inside the museum. The main entry room is filled with oil men and various Texas wheelers and dealers.

    It feels quite strange to stroll amongst the suites wearing large hats and even larger belt buckles with their expensive boots and bolo ties. I don’t know whether to look at artifacts or the flamboyantly Texan business attire. We are hesitant to encroach, but we are waved on into the gallery.

    There are carefully curated displays of spurs and barbed wire. I sit in a stage coach and look at Native artifacts. There are stuffed cows and endless framed cowboy prints. Honestly it is a lot more interesting than I expected. Through it all, dozens of flags never let you forget you are in Texas.

    Just when we thought we had worked our way through the galleries, we discover that the center is really just beginning to unfold its treasures. The door at the back gallery opens onto an outside working farm where kids can learn about all the important tasks needed to run a ranch. Even us big kids learned a thing or two.

    A sign in the gift shop directs us to the outdoor historic ranching area. There is more? We are surprised to learn that they have assembled representative ranch houses from virtually every era of Texas history in the acreage behind the museum. Based on the preliminary map, this is going to take much longer than we thought.

    We step back in time to when Texas was still Mexico and a ranch house was an adobe building. Honestly, it is cooler and well suited to the environment. From there we move through small lean to’s. There are line cabins, only big enough for a cowboy or two to shelter from the wind. We move on to proper farm houses and bunk houses and cooking sheds. There are endless barns and windmills.

    If the buildings aren’t enough on their own, the grounds are wired for sound. At every stop, we hear the sounds of the environment…cattle….coyotes…..lullabies….horses….trains…

    I see saddles, branding irons, water tanks, cattle chutes… the fun never ends. After walking and looking and talking for hours, we eventually reach the modern era. We board a train… the long cattle drives are over. Leaving the rail yard, we find ourselves in a modern barn. I guess, the men inside in their fancy suits represent the owners of the modern spreads. Whether oil or beef or water rights…it is all big business. Boom or bust. Drought or plenty. Fortunes have been won and lost, carved out of the dust and endless winds. The National Ranching Heritage Center is a fitting tribute to the legacy of Texas ranching. The giant hats and buckles crowd should be proud of this place, it represents in ways that seem simultaneously honest and reverent.

  • The Long Ride: Rural Road Trips Texas

    The lure of the open road is strong. I love road trips and I love to drive. Today I am behind the wheel of our thirty foot rv which is towing our Chevy pickup. My husband completed the first shift coming out of New Mexico. He navigated White Sands missile range, Alamogordo, and Roswell. I happily did some work and had a snack as he pulled over the mountains.

    We couldn’t find a place to park the long rig in Roswell and instead opted to have a sandwich while parked on the shoulder. No aliens were encountered. However somewhere in the mountains, we unexpectedly found the birthplace of Smoky Bear. Who knew, he was a real bear?

    I take the wheel near the Texas Border. The road becomes flat and the high winds begin to blow. It takes all my concentration to hold the rig steady on the road. The speed limit climbs to 80 officially. Unofficially, it is whatever you can get away with. At sixty five, our rv begins to sway in the wind. I can sometimes push my speed to seventy, but am uncomfortable going much faster in this wind. I feel like we could easily blow off the road if I am not careful.

    The truckers zip by, giving us a bigger push of wind. I try to keep my eye on them so I can brace for the side winds. If I know the are coming, I can steer into the wind and prevent swerving.

    To complete the challenge, it is a three lane road. Two lanes in one direction for a few miles and then it alternates to two lanes in the opposite direction for a few miles. This results in a race to see who can pass before the two lanes turn into one. No one wants to be stuck behind slower traffic.

    I spend the next hours trying to make sure I make it into the remaining single lane before I run out of road or before I am cut off by a truck and unable to safely merge. It is mercifully flat and straight. High speeds and high winds are tough. A winding road may be too much for my sanity.

    The road goes on and on. There is nothing in this part of Texas except grazing land, wind mills, and an occasional oil well. Everyone we meet is in a hurry to get somewhere else. It is a good thing we have a large gas tank, because filling stations are hard to find. And so it goes….

    It is at this point that the lure of the open road turns in to, “are we there yet?” My husband asks if I want him to take over. I do, but I see no where to safely pull over. It should only be another hour to Lubbock. We will stop for the night and regroup. He can figure out how to get us to Oklahoma in a few days. Right now I just want to find a way out of the relentless West Texas wind.

  • Imperial Palace: Travel Goals Japan

    Today we visit the Imperial Palace in Chiyoda, Tokyo. While it is the primary residence of Japan’s Emperor, the inner palace area is closed to visitors. Instead, we head to the East gardens. Both the palace and the gardens are built on the grounds of the former Edo Castle, the seat of the Tokugawa shogunate. There are thousands of people out today. It is a sunny beautiful day and apparently a lot of people are willing to stand in a security line to see remnants of moats and walls.

    As we walk toward the East Garden, I am confused by a large number of volunteers holding signs and pointing. They shout something in Japanese to us. Maybe they are selling tours? We ignore them and continue through security into the East gardens.

    It is pretty here. There are historic guard houses and beautiful pine trees. Not exactly the palace that I had hoped to see, but interesting enough.

    Along the edge of the moat, there are watchtowers. From inside the guard room we can see the nearby hills. The Edo palace would have been well protected. I feel as if I can see forever.

    While we are watching from above, I try to find the emperor’s house. I can’t see it. Instead, I notice long, long lines of people down near the palace grounds. They appear to be queuing for entry. Could it be one of the rare days the palace grounds are open to the public? Was that what the people with signs and bullhorns were trying to tell us?

    I am on a mission to find out what is happening. It looks like something important. I finally find a sign in Japanese and use Google Translate to discover that the palace grounds are indeed open today in honor of the first cherry blossoms. My husband and son are not thrilled to learn that I want to walk all the way around the moat back to the palace, queue for security and then enter the restricted area. We stand in line with thousands to go through a even narrower and stricter security lines in order to walk through the palace grounds.

    We are confined to one street. We walk through the massive palace gates and past administrative buildings. We can’t actually see the President’s house. We just dutifully follow the crowd and watch them ooh and ahh over the emerging cherry blossoms. There are thousands of cameras pointed at the blooms. Families smile and laugh. It has the feeling of a national holiday.

    The wait and walk was long. Honestly, we didn’t see much except a road and a few trees. And yet…. The experience was deeply cultural. I had a glimpse into another form of national expression. I walked inside the Japanese Imperial Palace with thousands of Japanese nationals to open the cherry blossom season. I was welcomed warmly and I got to witness people joyfully participating in their national tradition. That is an unexpected gift and reason enough to celebrate.

  • War Eagles: Rural Road Trips

    The War Eagle Museum is a privately owned museum filled with historic aircraft and cars. It is located at the Dona Ana County airport at the border of New Mexico and Texas. We are only here because it popped up on the GPS as we were driving to El Paso.

    I have zero expectations and only mild interest, but my husband loves military history and this place is chock full of WWII and Korean War Era planes. This may be a great stop. You never know.

    We are the only people here other than the volunteers so we take our time as we wander along. I find I actually like getting up close and personal with aircraft. I am intrigued by the things pilots painted on their planes. Girlfriend’s names, pinup girls, kill tallies…and sometimes just random doodles like a boy relieving himself on the enemy’s flag. These personalizations make the objects more real. I have a strong sense of young men trying to survive a very bad situation with humor and thoughts of home.

    There are large planes and small planes. Every variety of test planes sit all in a row. There are bombers and fighter planes. We walk through cargo planes and sit in helicopters. My husband is like a kid in a candy store.

    I find my magic moment in the section of antique cars. They have my first car! I am in love with a 1960 VW bug. Manufactured before my birth, this model is a classic. It is exactly like the car I had to help rebuild before I could drive. My Dad spent hours getting it ready for me. I learned to fix the carburetor. We forgot to screw down the engine block and it fell as I was turning the corner at the courthouse. It took forever to heat up in the winter. My bass clarinet went in the trunk in front of the car. My little brother had me drive and drive and drive while he pretended to be Luke Skywalker and called me Princess Leia (a five year old imagination and a sister that would do anything to make him smile).

    I am flooded with memories. This car was a big part of my young life. Still thinking about the happiness of being sixteen and learning to drive, I turned the corner and saw one of the first TWA planes. TWA was an iconic airline based out of St. Louis until they were taken over by American Airlines. It is another blast from my teenage past.

    A volunteer invited us into the plane. It pays to be one of the only guests. We are getting VIP treatment. With permission, we sit down. As I look at the couches and China sets, I pretend I am part of an era when plane travel was sophisticated. It wasn’t always a cattle call.

    After looking at a unique collection of airplanes made from kits, and I wonder who has enough confidence and courage to build their own plane. What made the early pioneers take to the skies in a plane they made of balsa wood and canvas? My feet would definitely stay on the ground.

    I also wouldn’t have volunteered to be in the skies in a b52 bomber. The plane is large and the gun turrets are enough to give me nightmares. Sitting cramped in a glass turret while small fighter planes try to shoot you out of the sky and your fellow airmen push live bombs out of the bottom of the plane is not my idea of a good time. I’m look at holes in the bottom of the bomber and feel just a little more indebted to those that found the courage.

    The War Eagle museum is full of planes and automobiles. In museums like this across the country we experience history. We can literally reach out and touch machines that helped win wars. And in each of these small and important spaces volunteers rebuild and maintain the artifacts. They understand the importance of remembering. War Eagle does it better than most.

  • Beautiful Surprise: Travel Goals Japan

    Just walking through Tokyo, we take a short cut suggested by Google Maps. We are on our way to Tokyo Tower to get an aerial view of the city. Google says we can walk through an ancient wooden door. My husband is leery because it is obviously not a street and Google has taken us to some strange places (including a pasture and a hiking trail in an automobile…..but that is a story for another time). I counter that other people are moving freely through the doors in the massive gate and Google usually knows the way. The worst that can happen is that we are asked to leave.

    Just inside the gates a whole temple complex unfolds. A beautiful scene of temple, cherry blossoms, and Tokyo tower takes my breath away. Yay! A bonus temple. My husband rolls his eyes. He often gets weary of my love of churches and temples. He gravitates to a large tree with a sign that says it was planted by President U.S. Grant.

    I am fascinated by a garden with dozens of statues of children. They are dressed in a variety of styles. One even appears to be a Cubs fan. They are cheerful and jaunty. But on closer inspection, I find out it is a garden for the unborn. A memorial for children wished for yet unrealized or children miscarried. What seemed fun now seems melancholy. It is a garden of lost dreams and undying love.

    Just beyond there is a burial site of the Tokagawa shoguns. I want to see them. The boys have tired of temples. I tell my husband I will meet him at the tower, but find there is no way out of the cemetery except the way I came. I am only a few steps from the tower but cannot exit this way. Sigh. I hurry back the way I came. Back through the garden of stone children. Back past the temple with burning incense. Down a long avenue of glorious trees. Sometimes a short cut turns into a lingering and pleasant surprise.

  • El Paso City: Rural Road Trips Texas

    From thirty thousand feet above the desert floor I see it there below 
    A city with a legend, the West Texas city of El Paso 
    Where long ago I heard a song about a Texas cowboy and a girl 
    And a little place called Rosa’s where he used to go and watch this beauty whirl
     

    I don’t recall who sang the song but I recall a story that I heard 
    And as I look down on this city I remember each and every word 
    The singer sang about a jealous cowboy and the way he used a gun 
    To kill another cowboy, then he had to leave El Paso on the run 

    El Paso City 
    By the Rio Grande 
    The cowboy lived and rode away but love was strong he couldn’t stay 
    He rode back just to die in that El Paso sand 
    El Paso City 
    By the Rio Grande 
    I try not to let you cross my mind but still I find
    There’s such a mystery in the song that I don’t understand 

    My mind is down there somewhere as I fly above the badlands of New Mexico 
    I can’t explain why I should know the very trail he rode back to El Paso 
    Can it be that man can disappear from life and live another time 
    And does the mystery deepen ’cause you think that you yourself lived in that other time 

    Somewhere in my deepest thoughts familiar scenes and memories unfold 
    These wild and unexplained emotions that I’ve had so long, but I have never told 
    Like everytime I fly up through the heavens and I see you there below 
    I get the feeling sometime in another world I lived in El Paso 

    El Paso City 
    By the Rio Grande 
    Could it be that I could be the cowboy in the mystery 
    That died there in that desert sand so long ago 
    El Paso City 
    By the Rio Grande 
    A voice tells me to go and seek, another voice keeps telling me 
    Maybe death awaits me in El Paso
     

    El Paso City lyrics as sung by Marty Robbins

    I am not a particular fan of Marty Robbins. I’m not even sure how I know it, but that song runs through my head all day as we explore the wonderful city of El Paso. I have no real idea what to expect. Songs and movies would have you believe it is overrun with bandits. People in the RV parks warned us away from the border towns. My mother reminded me that we have relatives here who moved two generations ago.

    El Paso is a lovely town. It is scrappy, gritty, and proud. We start our visit at the University of Texas El Paso. We are within sight of the border. The parking is a bit confusing and we are really the only tourists in sight. I like it. College campuses are familiar and invigorating. Hundreds of students scramble to get to class. We, on the other hand wander through the desert garden and visit the campus museum.

    The exhibits are clearly student created. I love them all the more for their shoe string budget and quirky collections. As a history teacher. This is what history should be. The telling of stories. The juxtaposition of unique perspectives. The collecting of artifacts. And the reasoned sourcing and cross checking that leads to informed opinion. Not perfect, not certain, and ever changing.

    After spending time in the UT museum, we head across town to the Magoffin home. It is a preserved nineteen room adobe structure from the late 1800’s. It sits in a neighborhood not far from downtown. The city has grown up around what was once a prosperous borderland estate. Today the neighbors are struggling.

    The tour was interesting. Our guide was personable and incredibly gracious to a blind member of our tour group. When possible, he was allowed to touch the items she was talking about. This let him “see” what the rest of us were seeing. It was inclusive in a way I have rarely encountered.

    We were surprised to see a diploma hanging in the Magoffin daughter’s bedroom from Washington University. She graduated from the premier university in our “hometown”. They opened in 1853 and began admitting women in 1869. It seems Ms. Magoffin was a trend setter. She was also a gifted artist. Missouri connections can be found in the most unexpected places.

    We spent so long at the Magoffin home that many places stopped serving lunch. Siesta is no time to be hungry. After spending an embarrassingly long time trying to to figure out how to use the public parking app (Whatever happened to meters? I had plenty of change.) We rejoice that there is a Subway on the block between parking and our next stop.

    I can see a park, a ball park, public art, a street car, and the border. It is vibrant, quirky, and alive. I like this town. It has energy. I wish there was a better way than walling off the Mexican neighbors. I ponder why we find a wall unnecessary at the Canadian border but somehow mandatory here as I eat my veggie sandwich. Somehow the bread seems to stick in my throat as I mull over the intersections of crime, racism, safety, language, nationalism, cultural identity economic interests, and power.

    But I am here for fun, so instead I focus on the herd of teenage boys walking in a clump down the sidewalk. Some things transcend culture. I have worked in schools all my life. I recognize the aimless camaraderie. At least it is the weekend, so I know they aren’t skipping school. Truancy is a problem more bite sized.

    We walk a short distance to the El Paso Museum complex. With only a few hours until closing time, we opt for the history museum (shocking). It does a wonderful job of celebrating the diversity of El Paso. I loved the cowgirl “charra” exhibit. I even tried an elaborate side saddle. Getting on was a breeze. Getting off was….less than graceful. We wandered through the city’s history, one lovely exhibit at a time.

    Perhaps I like El Paso because it reminds me of home. Both El Paso and St. Louis are often dismissed as a lower tier city that has seen better days. But both have a rich cultural history and a diverse population. They having thriving economic sectors. The museums are free. The neighborhoods are quirky and interesting. The people are friendly. Both deal with an element of crime that causes people to fear. Fear prevents people from visiting neighborhoods and causes a level of unhealthy segregation. Nevertheless the people are proud of who they are and their city. But I am not from El Paso and may be making connections that are only in my mind.

    We end the day taking a winding road to an overlook high on a hill. From here we can see the city below. On the other side of the ugly border wall we see Ciudad Juarez. I wonder how many people are crossing into Mexico to visit the dentist, doctor, or pharmacy. Apparently medical tourism is alive and well, at least based on the advertisements I have noticed.

    It is beautiful here. I find myself wishing for a world that embraced beauty, and diversity, and Somewhere in my deepest thoughts familiar scenes and memories unfold 
    These wild and unexplained emotions that I’ve had so long, but I have never told 
    Like everytime I fly up through the heavens and I see you there below 
    I get the feeling sometime in another world…..

  • Team lab: Travel Goals Japan

    With our son along for the experience, we journey across Tokyo to find Team Lab. As we wander between office buildings and upscale retail, I am convinced we are lost. Finally, we find the entrance tucked in a remote corner of a very large, sterile mixed use building.

    We are directed to put our coats and bags in a locker. There is a timed entry with only twenty people or so admitted at a time. Our cluster of adventurous souls huddles in the entry holding room. We are told, at least by what I am able to understand, that we are entering an immersive and sometimes interactive art space.

    It is “Borderless”. There are no routes or directions, but there are many rooms. Some will be hard to find. The digital experiences will change periodically so that we may not recognize a room if we come back to it, even if we have been there before. And we can stay as long as we want. We now have directions and still no idea what we are actually here to see. (I booked based on recommendation of a friend who said we had to come.)

    The doors open and we enter a room swirling with flowers. It smells like flowers and sounds like birdsong and bugs and a calming music. The flowers dance and swirl. When I reach for one it transforms into a different bloom. It is mesmerizing.

    We follow the flower trail to a field of flowers coming waist high from the floor. It is hard to know where to walk, so I pick my way through. Suddenly the room goes dark and I am standing in a rice paddy. The physical plant structures that stand next to me are the same, but the room looks entirely different. We walk carefully through the field to find a way out into a room of crystals that change color to a musical rhythm.

    We follow a marching band of animals down long hallways. We watch a parade of ancient samurai that shimmer like ghosts. We walk through lava fields and take a mind bending walk through outer space. I swear the room is moving and that I am floating even though I know neither can be true.

    We visit a magical teahouse. Our tea is served by smiling hosts after we are seated in a long row. A flower grows in my teacup. When I move the cup the petals fall. If I swirl the cup, they float away and a new flower grows. This happens again and again until the cups are empty.

    We encounter robotic glowing orbs and charging bulls. The largest room simulates a river with a number of waterfalls. When I walk, the “water” puddles around my feet. If I stand still the “water” diverts around me. If I stand under a waterfall, the “water” separates and cascades down my shoulders. What manner of digital witchcraft is this? Even the sounds adapt with appropriate splashing and sloshing.

    We roam in and out of seemingly endless experiences. We walk through a wall of mist only to find a ghost army of Ronin walking towards us out of a second wall of mist. I reach for an object and find it is a hologram. I touch a wall and discover it is really thin material. Nothing is as it seems and everything is fantastical.

    Eventually we decide we have to leave. We don’t really want to leave, but it is late and we need to eat. So reluctantly, we go.

    Generally, we don’t like the “it” places of travel. You may have read my prior blogs about the disappointing experiences we have in the places everyone says you should go. I don’t know if team labs is actually an “it” place. I am not exactly an influencer. But if I were (I cannot believe I am saying this…..), if you ever find yourself in Tokyo, you have to go.

  • White Sands: Rural Road Trips New Mexico

    Today we decide to channel our inner elementary school selves. We leave with all the excitement of “are we having a snow day”. But not before we stop and borrow two round “UFO” sleds from our campground. It is hot and fully in New Mexico’s high desert. But Apparently sand dune sledding is a thing, and we are all in on the adventure.

    So this morning, we travel the lonely highway to White Sands National Park. Along the way we cross the White Sands missile range, which is an active military test site. It is crazy that you can see missile observation stations from the highway. It is crazier to think that the government actually tested nuclear bombs not far from where I am driving. History is sometimes hard to imagine through my modern lens.

    A few sonic booms make me wonder what they are up to today and whether we should even be here. No one else looks concerned, even when we have to come to a full stop on the interstate at a government checkpoint. A flock camera reads our license plate and a border agent asks us questions. I feel a little silly saying I am taking my “flying saucer” to surf a sand dune and I need to cross your missile range, please. They don’t even bat an eye. Since this is the only main highway, I guess they are used to a steady stream of commuters.

    At the visitor’s center, we browse exhibits about the dunes, read and hear numerous warnings about trails and consider the very real possibility of getting lost. After all the cautions, we also buy an extra gallon of water. Just in case.

    On our first stop, we hike a 1.5 mile trail over the sands. It is beautiful in a surreal way. I get beach vibes without the water. Where did the sand come from? How can one tree grow in a sea of sand?

    We are careful to follow the trail markers. It is not always easy as the wind has blown dunes over some of the way finding signs and other directional sign posts are placed in areas that are hard to see. We wander back and forth in deep sand, straining our calves and thighs.

    It is hard walking. The sun is high in the sky and searing our skin and eyes. Even my sunglasses don’t seem quite dark enough. The birds and small rodents don’t seem to care. I concentrate on the wind on my face and finding the way back to the truck.

    Back at the truck, we drink an ample supply of water and head on down the road. At some point, we run out of paved park road. From here on, we drive on occasionally plowed silica. It is like driving after a Midwest snow storm. I keep trying to use the technique I use to drive on ice or hard pack. It is instinctual and makes no sense in our current situation. But I feel like at any time I could hear the crunch of snow under the tires. In reality, it is more like a washboard dirt road. Thankfully, I am also a veteran of country backroads.

    I don’t know how long it will take to the large dunes, but we have been assured that a) there will be a nearby parking lot and b) we will know them when we see them. We also were told not to venture beyond the first few dunes because the trails have not been maintained and no one will be coming to the rescue. Point taken. Noted. Don’t have to tell me twice.

    Eventually, we reach mountains of sand. We are not the only crazy people out here. There are others and they also have sleds….and children. It seems we may be the only retirees. Oh, well. Age is just a number.

    My husband commences with the waxing of the sled. We are supposed to coat the bottom of the sled with a think layer of wax to help it run smoothly over the sand. While he is working, a car pulls up. A couple that is easily our age (probably older) gets out and asks if we are going to try it. We say, “of course.” They ask to join us.

    The more the merrier. It turns out that they are also staying at our campground. It is fun to make new friends so we share a few stories from the road. It seems we all had issues getting our rigs safely down the horribly maintained highway. There are woeful stories of potholes, elevation gains, and high winds.

    Eventually it is time to fight my way to the top of the hill through the deep sands. It is harder than it looks. I struggle to climb. Two steps up, a giant slide back down. If I zig zag like a mountain trail, I make progress. Heading straight up is an epic fail. This could take awhile.

    At the top of the hill, I swallow hard. It looks so steep from here. Am I sure I want to do this? I wish I could watch someone else first. Oh well. I just throw down the sled and jump on….. I hit the ground and jerk forward. My sled collapses in the middle and takes on a saucer full of sand. Meanwhile my husband zips down the hill.

    What the heck? I sit and try to shake sand out of my underwear and wonder what just happened. I try again and ground out once more. Like a beached whale, I slide along, pulling myself with my feet. The sled buries and pitches me forward on my face. I can’t make it go despite a variety of technique changes

    I watch my husband with envy. He wisely declines to offer advice. After awhile we decide I should try his sled. I take a running start and I zip down the hill. Whee! This is awesome!

    I am so glad it was my defective, floppy sled and not me. I walk up the hill and zip down again. I have memories of trudging through snow up the small hill in my backyard. I am still that small girl in my mind’s eye. I am once again Queen of the Hill. I can do this all day.

    Eventually, we tire of the long climb. Our shoes and pants are full of sand. I have gritty grains in my hair, teeth, and eyes. The sun is getting lower over the dunes and it is time to go. We say goodbye to our new friends and invite them to sit at our campfire tonight.

    We will need to clean up, and refine the stories of the day. One of the best parts of “snow day fun” was sharing hot cocoa and laughing about the adventures of which you lived to tell the tale. Since we are in the desert, I think a nice cold drink and a pizza may be more appropriate.