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Country Roads: Travel Goals

Detours are what you make of them. My husband has a no back track rule. He doesn’t like out and back journeys. I don’t know why. In his view, we can go out of our way as long as it leads to somewhere we haven’t already been.
I, on the other hand, am paradoxical. I hate detours if I am trying to get somewhere on a time schedule. They are stressful if your day is full of meetings and deadlines. And my life used to be full of both. But…..if time is not an issue and you have a sense of adventure ….a forced or planned detour can actually be delightful.

As an example….when we were driving in Ireland, we experienced road closures in several areas. When the N or R roads (think state and county) are closed, you are automatically on an adventure whether you want to be or not. L (local) roads that you are forced to use can be winding, sunken, one lane adventures. You may find yourself traversing blanket bog or thick woods. Part of the fun is figuring out what comes next.

Occasionally, I force a detour….just because. There are forest parks to hike and waterfalls to see. I may notice a sign for a garden center or animal sanctuary. There could be a church to visit or ruins to explore. If it makes you curious and you are close, why not visit? “Why not detour?” would make a great bumper sticker.
Most of the time, detours and delays are out of our control. Now that I am retired (at least from my first career), I am more apt to lean into the occasional traffic jam. If it is caused by the local farmer moving an extremely large herd of sheep or cattle across the highway, I take pictures. If I am diverted onto a side road, I try to enjoy the road less traveled and notice things I may not otherwise encounter. (Don’t get me wrong…. I still want the department of transportation to finish the project that has messed up my commute to the office for the past year. I have had all the zen moments I can manufacture in that situation.)

But life is short. Take the detour. Visit the forest. Laugh at the cows. Slow down. Your work will always be there. The things that must get done, get done. Take time to roll down the windows and drink in the scent of pine or fresh cut hay. If exhaust fumes make that impossible, notice the sun on your face or the way rain drops roll of the window. Life is beautiful if you allow the detours to become part of your adventure.
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Neighbors come calling: Travel Goals

When you rent a farmhouse in county Leitrim, Ireland you expect a fair amount of pastoral beauty. The iconic green hillsides, the wild flowers and of course lots of sheep are part of the experience. Having been in Ireland several times prior, we knew what to expect. On our last adventure we spent a month in a 250 year old farmhouse on an Irish estate.
This time we opted for a working farm in the mountain country near the border with Northern Ireland. The farms were interspersed with forest. Mountains and valleys and lakes and streams made it hard to tell where to boundaries of farms and countries began and ended. The roads were narrow and curvy. And the livestock could care less about any of it. They went where they wanted.

The first morning I was up early. I went into the kitchen to make my coffee. When I turned around a little face was looking back at me from the picture window. A sheep was standing at the window watching me make breakfast.
As we settled in, I became more aware of the telltale crunch of gravel and the subtle bleating that announced visitors. There were sheep in the front garden helping themselves to the shrubbery. Sheep in the driveway, licking the salty ocean spray off the car doors. Sheep in the backyard, knocking over the starlink receiver. Sheep on the patio. Sheep in the fields.

Some days they would disappear on the mountain and it was too quiet. Other days, they kept up a steady chorus of bleating. Every day, we were entertained by prancing, jumping, munching, and head butting.
They made it quite clear that the area would be shared on their terms. My sidewalk was a convenient sheep latrine. It was a perfect spot between the sweet grass of the pasture and the tender shrubbery of the garden.
Blehhhhhhh. Blehhhhhhh. Blehhhhhhh. Look in window. Munch flower. Relieve bowels. Blehhhhh. Blehhhhh. Knock over pots. Munch flower. Lick car. Return to field and lay down. Blehhhhh. Jump through hedge.
I started opening the door to say hello. Being careful where I stepped of course, I could walk along and have a conversation. Blehhhhh to you too. Come again soon. Hospitality is important when your neighbors come for a visit.
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Echos of the Past: Travel Goals

As a person completely fascinated with history, Ireland is a treasure chest waiting to be opened. Every town and field has a story to tell. People care about their past and work to preserve the historical record. Nowhere is this more evident than in the town of Ballina, where we experienced the Jackie Clarke collection.
Jackie Clarke, at the age of 11, started a scrapbook of articles about the Irish independence movement. Over the years he collected thousands of papers, articles, posters, and books. Today this vast collection is curated and displayed free of charge to the public. Because people should know their history.

A wee bit further down the road is the Ceide fields visitor center. Under these wind swept bogs, 5,000 year old farms were discovered. Stone walls, standing for millennia, are being mapped by scientists and local volunteers. This is the largest known Neolithic farm site in the world.

My brain can’t process time so distant. After reading the interpretative panels , I walk the bog. Raised platforms keep me high above the water and grasses. Every now and then, I see the stone walls peek out of the ground. Climate change and time buried the dwellings and erased the people who once lived here.

Only the stones remain. I look out from the field to the sea over a flimsy barbed wire fence. What will be left of us? What will bear witness that we were here?
Leaving the fields, we head to Belleek Woods. As we walk along the water and through the trees, we pass an abandoned mill. Its ruins are pretty against the green of the forest. Obsolete yet ornamental. We no longer build with a craftsmanship to withstand time.
Through the woods, school children have painted fairy houses and placed them among the trees. The legends live on. I think about Irish tradition and folklore as I walk. Until I am confronted with a fantastic circular pagoda like structure along the path.
Pre-internet/cellular data, I would have spent a lot of time trying to determine what it could be. Today I just whip out my phone and with a few keystrokes determine it is the final resting place of Sir Francis Knox Gore. He created a mausoleum that demands to be remembered.

Humans are so fragile. We live and sacrifice. Our life’s work is often left to scraps of paper and mentions in media. Our toil whispers in ancient walls and derelict buildings. Graves memorialize who we aspired to be. The past is accessible, if we care to stop and notice….. the traces …..the messages….. the echoes….
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Donegal Country: Travel Goals

It is our first trip into County Donegal. I am not sure what to expect after hearing songs and reading travel advice. For me the reality is both lovely and underwhelming. Donegal is beautiful without question. But it is not substantially different than other areas of Ireland. It has unrelentingly beautiful scenery and yet perhaps for me not the “most” of anything. Let me explain with a few examples.

We visited Gleann Cholm Cille village. It was in a lovely location near a beautiful beach. The restored cottages were interesting. Maybe it was the dozens of unrestrained children on summer camp outings running in and out. Maybe it was the dirty and dusty interiors that looked as if no one had been in the space in a very long time. Perhaps it was the jumble and piles of artifacts lying without order in each space. I found it interesting but I have certainly been in better cared for living history locations.

We took a bus to slieve league summit. Walking up a one lane road was not appealing and parking cost the same as the round trip bus ticket. I was looking forward to this trip. Guide books compare to the cliffs of Moher. Hiking guides tell you that it is an iconic hike.
The hike follows a narrow ridge line across a peninsula sloping to the sea over sharp slate stone. Lots of people try the hike. Lots of people are injured as they are unprepared for the terrain. I hike. Occasionally I need to cross a ridge. But I am not a ridge walker or thrill seeker. I didn’t have the right equipment with me and it looked more intense than an afternoon walk. There weren’t other trail options.
So we walked along the road and the cliff edges and waited for the bus to return. The views were wonderful, but no better than countless roadside stops we had made over the last few weeks. It is beautiful, but with all the hype my expectations were higher.

Fortunately, the bus drivers were charming and full of craic. The first driver asked if I had been to giants causeway. I said yes. He said ours isn’t that good. Finn McCool got tired before he got here. When a car got in a state down match with the bus on the one lane road, the driver cracked jokes as he waited for the car to back up to a place where we could pass. It was fun to allow someone else to navigate the narrow mountain pass.

We got some WWII history as we noticed rocks that spelled Eire on the hillside. It helped pilots navigate back to Britain apparently. I enjoyed Donegal. It was lovely. But I left with the same feeling I get when I finally get around to seeing that movie everyone can’t stop talking about….

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Along the Cladagh: Travel Goals

Sitting at home this morning and arranging photos from a recent trip to Ireland, I sorted pictures taken from County Fermanagh. We stayed within a few miles of the border with Northern Ireland and found ourselves in Fermanagh several times during our trip.

It rained a lot during our stay so the grass was green and the vegetation lush. We visited Marble Arches Cave on two different dates. The first visit, we took a boat into the cave. It was a little exciting riding silently into a cave and floating among the formations. We had to duck in several spots to avoid a rock induced headache.

A few weeks later we returned with our house guests (daughter and son in law) and had to enter through a different entrance because the water level was higher. No boats today….just a longer walk in and out of the length of the cave on foot. It wasn’t nearly as “cool” and we were disappointed. The reason we can back was to do the boat ride. We come from cave country and have seen a lot of show caves. The big draw at Marble arches is the boats. The formations aren’t really that spectacular.
As I am lamenting our bad fortune, I see a newsfeed from a Fermanagh newspaper (I subscribe to wherever we have “lived” on an extended stay just to stay connected.) I click in the video that shows people being evacuated from the cave. Water is pouring in. Guests are being escorted up stairways with torrential flow coming down. Water is above ankle deep in the cave and rapidly rising. Even the staging room is flooding. I can’t believe it is the same place. I am looking at a photo of the cave interior and watching a corresponding video of a cave rapidly filling with water.
Suddenly, my disappointment about the water being too high to ride a boat seems a little silly. Thank heaven we weren’t in the cave for a flash flood.

On our first visit we experienced a light misty rain. While I got a little wet, it happened moving to and from the cave entrances not form gushing water inside the cave. While I climbed lots of stairs, I didn’t have to do it while a river force avalanche of water was coming down them.
Because it was raining when we visited, we decided to also tour nearby Florence Court. This estate was home to the Earl of Enniskillen. It was just a few miles away. I thought it would be an indoor house tour. Instead, we parked pretty far from the house and walked in the rain.

The flowers were wet in the lovely walled garden. There is something about rain kissed blooms that can’t help but make me smile. Even is my tennis shoes are becoming soggy.

Florence Court is impressive. Even if the main house is actually quite compact. The servants wings, workshops, and kitchens make a sprawling estate. The landscaping and views from the house are beautiful.

For an all too brief hour, I have my Downton Abbey moment. And then it is back out into the rain. Just when I was starting to dry out. If only the tea and biscuits laid out in the kitchen were real.

If you are already wet, we figure you may as well visit a waterfall. We stop at Tullydermot Falls. Not surprisingly, we have the place to ourselves….except for the sheep. The trail to the falls is lined with sheep droppings. It is hard to find a spot to put my already wet shoes so that I don’t slip in dung. We giggle and laugh our way to the viewing area.

On that day, the river seems to be moving fast. Today, as I watch the massive flooding along the Claddagh and Owenbrean Rivers in Fermanagh…I think how lucky we were to be laughing in the rain. People have died in the flash flooding since. Water is over roads, filling caves, and ruining houses.
I sit here looking at photos of Fermanagh and I pray for its people. May blue skies be in your future my friends.

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Derry Girl: Travel Goals

I love the television series “Derry Girls”. The sitcom follows the antics of five friends during the 1980’s in Derry, Northern Ireland. It makes light of coming of age in a town rocked with sectarian violence. Five friends rely on each other as the struggle to make sense of a world that makes no sense.
So visiting Derry requires me to participate in the full Derry Girl experience at the Tower Museum. The Quinn living room “set” is available in all of its faded glory. Nicola Coughlan’s school uniform sits in pride of place. I perused scripts and props, and I even got to try on the green jacket….making me an official Derry girl.

After the museum experience, we walk the top of the wall encircling the old city. There are cannons and churchyards. We walk past shops and parks. About halfway around the wall walk, we find a giant mural immortalizing Erin, Orla, Clare, Michelle, and James.

As we walk, I think about my conversation with a local man who lived through the “troubles”. He told me about towns along the border that were bombed and friends that lost their lives. “For what?” He asked. “For what?”

I have no answers but the questions are heavy on my mind as I enter the Free Derry quarter. During the 1960’s, 70’s, and 80’s this Catholic sector was ground zero for political violence. Ulster forces battled the IRA for control, with residents often caught in the crossfire. On Bloody Sunday, 26 unarmed peaceful civilian protestors were shot. Many of the injured were fleeing or attempting to help the wounded. 14 died as a result of the conflict.

Murals here bear witness to the tragedy. It took almost forty years for official recognition that the acts were unjustified. It is a city that has seemingly come to uneasy terms with its past.

I don’t know why politics and religion are so often excuses to forget our shared humanity. I don’t know how “us” vs. “them” devolves into atrocities. I sit at the peace statue and I pray for peace and understanding to prevail. I pray that we fight our base instincts and instead practice empathy.

With much to think about, we head for the coast. The sunshine, blue sky, and surf calms and soothes. The problems that humans create seem far removed amid the timeless pull of the ocean.
We stand on the farthest point North. How many ships rounded this head on their way to America? How many immigrants took their last look at home as they sought refuge from poverty and violence?

I stand at the beautiful shore and troubles seem far away. Derry is calm, but America is in turmoil. But today, I am a Derry girl. I smile in the face of issues I didn’t cause and can’t control. I will rely on family and friends and take life as it comes. A smile and friends make even the hardest times bearable.

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Not According to Plan: Travel Goals

I am an early riser. I love the morning hours when the light is diffuse and the first notes of birdsong fill the air with promise. When we travel, I putter around the house with my coffee. I read, I write, and I explore options for the day.
This means that I check the weather and then I check out potential things to do based on likelihood of good weather. I try to have a menu of options arranged in drivable clusters. When my husband gets up, we discuss options. Somehow, a game plan emerges.

Some days our plans work, and some days we wing it. Our first day in Sligo did not go as planned. We drove to Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery to see the large burial site. The parking lot gates were open, but the signs indicated the site was closed. I wandered around the lot as we could see a massive round stone structure on the hill, but trespassing is not my thing. So I took a few photos from the road and we moved on.

We drove toward the coast and stopped at the Strandhill flats to watch families play on the wet sand chasing the receding tide. It was a beautiful setting of sea, sand, and sky. But I wanted to hike up Knocknarea in search of the legendary Queen Maeve’s tomb. So we left and headed to the trail head parking. It was closed for a 5k run. And many of the roads were closed so we couldn’t easily turn around.

The GPS routed us up a mountain road. It was narrow and winding. I had no idea where we were headed. Eventually we found ourselves on the road to Strandhill beach. Somewhat disappointed, we parked in a public lot and walked down to find lunch.

Sometimes the unexpected turns out for the best. At Strandhill, we found a thriving surf scene. Watching the surfers, I noticed a beach trail. So without really knowing where we were headed, we took off among the sea grass.
We found beautiful views of lighthouses and an old stone church. Grave markers poked up through the long grass as lonely sentinels along the shore. The blue sky spread overhead and green moss lined the rocks below. A light breeze kissed my face as the faint smell of forest carried down from the mountain and mingled with the tang of ocean spray.

I don’t know if the trail was better or worse than the mountain hike I planned, but it was enough. Satisfied, I settled into a beachside pub to savor fish and chips in a place that knew to bring malt vinegar without having to be asked ….. and they refused to bring my Guiness until it had settled and been topped off. It is hard to explain to my American friends how much these little nuances bring me joy.

After a leisurely lunch, we strolled the far end of the beach hand in hand. He stopped to watch the golfers battle the dunes. I am fascinated by the surfers who brave the cold Atlantic. The farther we walked, the fewer people. We were almost back around the bend to the sand flats where we started the morning.

All this fresh air and walking deserved a treat. So we stopped at Mammy Johnson’s. From the look of the crowd, it was a local favorite. I ordered Banoffee. I didn’t know what it was exactly….but I love Banoffee pie. The taste blew me away. By far, the best icecream ever. .

On the way home we saw a sign for Glencar waterfall. Why not? The road was packed with people and bicycles. It was not built for the volume of traffic so we go very slowly. Luckily, the large parking lot had room for us.
The walk to the falls was short. The falls were not the biggest but were still pretty and peaceful.

Glencar lake was idyllic. The sheep in the meadow punctuated the green grass nestled between mountains. I could have sat here all day. We lingered. I watched sheep and my husband watched people. He talked to families out for a weekend afternoon. I watched lambs frolic near the water.

Headed back through Manorhamilton, we saw signs for a street festival. We were here. We might as well enjoy. So we settled into the local pub until the music started. The first band were local boys. Their songs were all dark and full of angst. I bought a grilled burger. The Irish beef was amazing and made up for the music. The second band was fun and more traditional. I found myself dancing and singing along. The third band turned up the volume to a place that was uncomfortable. My ears felt assaulted. I couldn’t even think about the music. So, it was time to go.

None of this day was in my plans, but sometimes the best things about travel are the unexpected surprises you encounter along the way. Unplanned. Unanticipated. Unscripted.
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Cavorting in Cavan: Travel Goals

“As I walk the road from Killashandra
Weary I sit down
For its twelve long miles around the lake
To get to Cavan town
Though Ougher and the road I go
Is a scene beyond compare”- Cavan Girl
On the words of a song and an attempt to avoid the rain, we head to Cavan. The lake country is beautiful. And it is easy to get lost on country roads.
At an abandoned abbey, I wander the ruins in the rain. I walk among the graves and admire the haunting stillness of the lake. Wild swans glide by.
In Cavan town, busy streets play contrast to the rural countryside. I can’t help but smile at the man who set up a “dance with me” booth on the sidewalk. Retro music and silly dance moves brighten a dreary day. But the wild places call.

We head out in search of Clough Oughter Castle. GPS is no help. We follow it to a private drive. No signs. Backtracking down a one lane track, we find the lake. I see a large gathering of swans but no castle. I am ready to give up.
On cue, a car load of locals appear in our isolated location. They show me a gate and a stile. There is a weed covered path at the edge of the lake. I follow. Before me is a castle on an island in the lake. It looks so close, but will remain just out of reach.

Further down the road, Cavan Burren park beckons. It is foggy and misty on the mountain. I walk paths to standing stones, portal tombs, and unusual cairns. The wind whistles and the temperature drops.
Ancient walls and sink holes whisper in the blowing wind. Ancient secrets. New hopes.

“The autumn shades are on the leaves
The trees will soon be bare
And each red-gold leaf reminds me of
The colour of her hair
My gaze retreats unto my feet
And once again I sigh
For the broken pools of sky remind
The colour of her eyes” -
Pilgrimage: Travel Goals

From a modern perspective, it is hard to envision a time when religion completely dominated the landscape. Yet in Ireland the past is everywhere. It is hard to cross a field without noticing some remnant of religious life. From Neolithic tombs to abandoned monasteries, religious architecture is hard to miss.

As a historian, I understand the power struggles and the economic issues that intertwined these religious spaces. A cynic would dismiss the ruins as dynastic power plays. One is built to show dominance and in the same way another is laid waste. An economist would tally the money changing hands in all this and proclaim the richest the winner. He who controls the territory and the resources is proclaimed right. But what of the faithful?

I walk these ruined interiors and I wonder what happens to those pure souls who dedicated their lives to service. What happened to those who fed the poor and tended the flock when the monasteries were closed because a new king wanted the money the land provided? What happened to the people who visited the churches and set up secret altars in the woods to continue their faith traditions despite the risks of being caught?

For those who see only power and money, religion is a means to an end. For those who seek God, it is an unbreakable relationship for better or worse. In modern Ireland, the patterns continue.

The ancient sites are full of tourists. The modern pilgrimage sites, such as Knock still bustle with the faithful. And in the woods and lanes you can find a holy well with cloth tied to trees for special blessings. In a random field, a stone with feather offerings carefully placed in the center. A rowan tree sits by the side of the road adorned with prayers and photographs. For the faithful, life is worship. There are after all, things that money can’t buy and that power can’t corrupt. In Ireland, I am reminded that faith is beautiful and always comes at a cost.

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Ennis on Adrenaline: Travel Goals

Landing in Ireland is always a little magical. I always know there is a fine misty morning awaiting. The first shiver of cool air and a breath of soil and sea welcome me home. Ireland is in my dna. I have never lived here, but if memory can be passed down through generations then something lingers strong and true.
It is a short walk to the rental car lot. As we approach the car and notice the scratches along the sides, I suddenly have flash backs to narrow roads, hedgerows and rock walls. Driving is no joke here and I am running on little sleep. The thought of navigating the opposite side of the road and unfamiliar traffic patterns induces a spike of adrenaline. Luckily, (actually more planning than luck), we don’t have far to go. We are spending one night in nearby Ennis before heading to points North.

We make the brief trip from Shannon airport to town without incident and park next to the Ennis friary. Outside the lot, there are numerous signs to pay and display. Inside the lot there is no sign and no pay meter. We take our chances and head to the friary. It is not yet open.
Thwarted, we aimlessly walk the streets of Ennis. People are walking to work and sitting in coffee shops. The stores are just beginning to open. This is not a tourist town and it is fun to get lost in local life. We pass murals and walk along the river. I giggle as I hear Irish slang and the constant presence of lilting curse words.
Tired of walking, we find a small visitor center attached to the Clare County Museum. We have to try three doors and walk down two different alleys to find a working way in (signage is not really prevalent or all that helpful in Ireland…just ask and someone is always happy to send you along).

We are warmly greeted by the attendant and treated like long lost relations. She has suggestions for food and wants us to try a variety of walks. Maps are supplied for the days to come. She also suggests that we visit the small museum. It is a treasure trove of random objects. In pride of place, is a car that belonged to Eamon de Valera (former Irish President). There are artifacts from the Neolithic era, a door from a Spanish Armada ship, a wooden jar of “bog butter”, sports jerseys and a lot of other objects. By the time we look over everything, the friary has long since opened.

We are admitted to the friary without having to pay. It seems that bees have swarmed in the transept and the caretakers don’t want us stung. So we are free to roam the other areas of the friary, as long as we agree to just look through the glass at the bees.
The friary, which once would have filled me with awe, now seems familiar. It is very similar to a number of other sites. I have committed to memory the shape of the monastic churches and the feel of the old stone. There are remarkable carvings and corbels that stand out at this site. The wet stone is home to birds and plants. It seems ancient and alive.
We wander for a while. Until the adrenaline has worn off. Eventually, we need food and sleep. We have arrived safely and I am already feeling relaxed. Somewhere a bowl of stew and slice brown soda bread is calling my name.
