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Travel Goals: Watching the World Go By
I love to be at sea. Early in the morning, I am often the only one on deck. As morning breaks over the water, at first only shadows appear. Slowly the landscape takes shape amid an orange glow. The waves are shadowy and alive.
The air smells clean and the wind is brisk. It is silent and peaceful. Slowly, though, the boat awakens with soft murmurs as other early risers join the gathering. Eventually the peaceful morning is disturbed by the talkative ones. People who are never silent are a blight on the beautiful day….at least initially. I am always resentful of the intrusion on the beautiful sounds of nature and/or silence.
Once the ship is bustling and I am past my regret that the early morning couldn’t last. It is time for coffee and a little work. Perhaps a walk around the outside decks to get some exercise.
This boat is big, but not a cruise ship. It is comfortable, but there is not much to do. The common areas are clean and spacious and the outdoor scenery is beautiful when not obscured by clouds, rain, or snow. But after a few days, the beautiful mountains begin to look alike.
I try to work from a common room and a German tourist is upset because I took a zoom call near him. No matter that several others had done the same. I upset his peace and quiet. Not matter that I was there quietly working when they came and sat by me. He felt I should work in my cabin. The WiFi is not as strong in my cabin so that is not an option. My husband says it does sound loud.
I don’t want to disrupt someone’s peace, so I get up and work standing in a hall where the WiFi still works. The man is upset (I ruined his vacation peace) and I am also upset (I am working in a common room where I was sitting alone when they entered and taking a client zoom call.) I picked the spot because another man was doing the same kind of work when I entered. I avoided the quiet of the library and the observation lounge. No matter. Neither of us were happy. Maybe it was a clash of cultures… maybe he felt the way I feel when the loud talkers show up in the morning.
By the third day, I am a little stir crazy. The one organized program each day is not very informative, but it is the only diversion on offer. So I go hear information that is not that helpful or entertaining just to have something to do. At least they try. It is after all a cargo ferry.
We also struggle with food options. There is no where to get coffee until 8:30, and I have already been up for a few hours. Pastry is fine. I try to order waffles, but am told they only have enough batter for one. The good news is that they give it to me free of charge. Four days on board and the same limited menu is served each day with the same daily special. We can order reindeer sandwich, reindeer steak, fish, or a hamburger. While I like all of the options, eating eight meals with four choices is….well….monotonous.
The daily excitement occurs as ports come into view. Most are 15 minute stops. There is not enough time to disembark or explore. But there is plenty of time to snap a few pictures of places I would likely never otherwise see. Peering over the railing, I can watch the dock hands and get a glimpse of a life far removed from my own.
By nightfall, I am ready to head to the library for a game of battleship or rummikub. After dinner coffee, signals the day is coming to an end. Retreating to the cabin, I climb into the top bunk and snuggle into the comforter. The rocking of the ship is better than a lullaby. There is something about the sea air….
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Trondheim Pilgrimage to Nidaros: Travel Goals
We dock in the cold, cold rain. Coming down the gangway, the wind blows water into our faces. My husband struggles into his rain suit while I wrestle with my umbrella. We try to follow directions to exit the docks into the town. In the blowing rain, it is unclear which way to go, so we pick a direction and take our chances.
At a fork in the road, the signs seem to contradict each other. We again follow the old adage, “when you come to a fork in the road take one”. Eventually we exit an alley between buildings and emerge between the waterfront and train tracks. The wind and rain pick up as we climb stairs to an overpass walkway into town. A small bridge gives a picturesque view of the small boat harbor. But it is too windy to linger or my umbrella may break.
Once in town, the rain stops and the wind abates. I am finally able to appreciate the quaint buildings. Bright yellows, reds, and greens cover business facades. We pass larger government buildings done in neoclassical style, but we keep up a fast pace. We are in search of the Nidaros Cathedral, a Norwegian pilgrimage site, and we are on a tight schedule.
This cathedral is the site of all royal weddings and christenings. It is the burial place of King Olav II, the patron saint of Norway. Construction started in 1070 A.D., making it the northernmost medieval cathedral in the world. The cathedral or “Domkirke” has been Lutheran since the Reformation.
It is a large and impressive structure, laid out in the familiar pattern of the cross. The flying buttresses, support the massive stone roof. Each area holds side chapels and stained glass masterpieces. It, like all great cathedrals, is awe inspiring. I pause to light a candle and give thanks for the health and recovery of our parents. I pray for peace and goodwill for humanity. I pray for our divided nation.
We slowly walk the perimeter, taking time to appreciate the stone work, the carvings, the paintings, and the furnishings. It is amazing what people have been able to achieve over the centuries. This place reminds us that humans are infinitely capable of beauty and greatness.
I find a small abandoned chapel and I stop to again pray for my country. I am saddened by the divisiveness and take a moment to unburden myself of the worry of it all. Refreshed, we head out to explore the old town.
We stop at the arched bridge. According to legend, if you kiss under the arch you will have lifelong happiness. We decide that it is a tradition we should support and pause for a quick kiss under each arch. The scenery is beautiful and the sun is actually shining. We attempt to dry out as we walk.
Most things in the old town sector are closed and our time is running short. So we walk and admire the old wooden buildings. We finally find the last bridge that can take us back to town and the harbor. Unfortunately, there is no time to stop for lunch. We quickly walk towards the harbor, dodging the hundreds of school children on the street. We notice that Norwegian children are often out and about in the towns. I am not sure when they are actually in class. Every day we pass preschoolers in bright yellow vests and students of all ages out exploring.
As we approach the bridge over the train tracks, the rain and wind return. We walk quickly in the cold as we return to the boat. I chuckle as we once again run the gauntlet of weather along the docks.
But, it is warm inside and time for lunch. I love the reindeer and lingonberry sandwich. I am having it again and I may have it a third or fourth time before we get off this boat. Who knew reindeer was so delicious? Happily munching away, I watch the lighthouses and mountains go by.
We decide that it would be fun to watch the world go by from the hot tub. It is 30 degrees, but the hot tub is warm. However, the winds pick up to over 40 and 50 miles per hour. The water blows into our eyes and nose. We sink further into the water to minimize exposed skin. It isn’t too bad, until we realize that we will need to get out into the ever increasing intensity of the wind. We can’t stay in here forever. We need to climb out of the hot tub and then down some stone (think river rocks) decorative steps and into an outdoor shelter to get our towels, shoes, and shirts. No one wants to go first. I decide to be brave.
We make it inside with shivering and laughter. I head straight the sauna and my husband to the blankets in the cabin. We each pick our preferred way to thaw. Outdoor hot tubbing on a moving boat in the arctic is clearly not for everyone. But it is definitely an adventure.
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Travel Goals: Alesund is Closed
The Midnatsol pulled into the port in Alesund, Norway early morning for an 8 hour stop. We disembark onto a rainy dock and navigate toward the city center. To get out of the cold rain, we walk to the Alesund museum. After walking up the steep hill in the wind and rain…. Closed….. it was not what we expected. Now we need a plan b.
We walk down the hill and to the next best stop. Closed. The rain stops, so I decide to climb the large hill in the park to take in the view. I leave my husband in the park and begin to climb the many switchbacks. About halfway up the cliff. A staircase of 428 steps to the top begins. The wind and rain periodically lash my face. The higher I climb, the fiercer the wind blows. At a glass floor observation platform, I feel like I will be blown off the mountain. I hold my hat with one hand and camera with the other. I lean into the wind and stumble when the gust abates.
I climb with a new friend a I meet on the trail, who said we were on a pilgrimage and that the Virgin Mary had better be on top to greet us. I laugh with her and tell her that after the climb I may need to be resurrected. The birds in the tree tops chatter their agreement. Or else they are mocking us.
Despite the cold and wind, the views are spectacular. Small glass walkways suspend out over the cliff and allow for photo stops. I need these diversions to catch my breath. The mountains are surrounded in clouds and the light rain continues to pelt my face in the high wind. With one hand still on my hat, I keep heading upward.
Once at the top, the art nouvea city stretches before me. The entire city burned to the ground in the early 1900s . It was rebuilt in the same architectural style of the time. Today the symmetrical buildings in bright colors are stunning from the top of the mountain. It feels worth the climb as the sun tries to peak out of the clouds.
The light shifts again and again as the clouds roll in. As the wind picks up, I make a hasty descent to meet my husband. We head across town to the architectural museum. Guess what….Closed. Oh well, it St. Patrick’s day. We decide to visit the Irish pub. Seriously….closed.
We do a long walk around the town. Closed. Closed. Closed. Heading back to the dock, we find an open gift shop. It feels like success, so I buy a few trinkets. We find a small cafe where we have a good meal. As we are relaxing and warming, our neighbor texted that we may have some water issues at home on our property. Relaxation over, my husband works the phone to resolve the issue. It seems when the electricity goes out for 24 hours, the pumps don’t work and when it comes back on they work overtime. When that happens the water runs into the neighbors yard. But all is well, the professionals tell us everything is working properly and will resolve itself. I wander a small mall while he works out the details and informs the people who need to know what is happening.
Eventually, we head back to the ship. Along the way, we find a grocery to provide cheese and chips for an evening snack. With our bag of goodies in hand, we climb the gangway to find no one to welcome us onboard. Unsure what to do, we wait until someone appears to tell us we needed to scan ourselves in. Huh…that is a new experience.
At this point, my husband decides a little tv time would be his afternoon strategy. I opt for the outdoor arctic hot tub and sauna combo. I think I made the better choice. Warm water and cold air are relaxing, And thankfully the facility is open.
As I soak, I think about our day. Nothing we set out to do happened. We spent almost an hour trying to verify if we had a major water leak at our home. And yet, I am relaxing in a beautiful location. I had a great walk and saw a beautiful town. I met new people and experienced new things (including some form of fried seafood that was completely black). It was a good day.
I run through the cold, across the upper deck and enter the hot sauna. Heaven. I just get settled where I can recline and look out the glass observation window when I get company. A little disappointing, but not my private sauna. I don’t have to give up my spot as the sauna is good sized. The woman announce that she is naked and wants to know if it bothers me. I said, “you do you”. I am in her country, it is normal here, and if I just look out the window I will never know the difference. Ålesund was closed, but the sauna is open. This day is about making the most of what is available despite the obstacles.
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Travel Goals: The Arctic Awaits
Today we leave Bergen aboard the Hurtigruten Coastal Express. This ferry system has traversed the length of Norway since 1893 and is our home for the next four nights. Norway has the second longest coastline in the world (which we sailed last Spring). Hurtigruten means the fast route because it runs 24 hours a day. They carry people, mail, goods, and cars. We picked the boat because of the local history and the fact that it is a local boat that is connected to the community.
After carefully putting our rental house in order, we walk across town to the Hurtigruten ferry terminal. It is about a mile and we have heavy rolling luggage so we take our time. It is thankfully a downhill walk.
With Hurtigruten docks in sight, we stop at a French cafe for lunch. We pile our baggage in a corner, hoping it is out of the way. I imagine we are not the first or last to do so. Waiting for our meal and talking about our boat, we notice a small dachshund wearing a winter sweater wandering by. He stops to chat. After an impromptu photo shoot, we part friends.
My Italiane pastry is excellent and the coffee divine. The barista sends me coffee with a dachshund shaped in cream. He says he was inspired by the little guy. My desert doesn’t arrive. I seek out the owner, because I need my French pastry. He laughs and brings me a large slice with an apology. I am happy here among dogs, and smiles, and pastry.
Just a block away, the ferry terminal beckons. Donning the backpack and towing my luggage, we trek onward. We are thankfully able to quickly check in our luggage. The Hurtigruten staff are friendly, professional, and efficient. In short order, we are directed to a lounge where we play cards and drink coffee. There are also fresh, hot cinnamon rolls. Unlimited coffee and warm pastries make for a pleasant afternoon. I am directed to join their membership program to access the WiFi. I need to do remote work on the boat so I make sure to gain access while I still have cellular data access. Who knows what happens in the Norwegian Sea? The time passes quickly and soon we can officially check in and proceed to watch the safety briefing.
Once aboard, the ship is bright and clean. Our room has lots of storage and a spacious bathroom. Unfortunately it also has narrow single beds. I take a top bunk that pulls down from the wall at night. This way I won’t be annoyed when my husband wants to watch tv and I want to sleep. The thick down comforter looks welcoming, even if we have bunk beds. I will try not to roll off and kill myself.
After unpacking, we explore the ship. With nine levels, the ship holds about 500 passengers as well as heavy cargo and vehicles moving up the coast. The levels for passengers is not unlike a cruise ship. It is very clean and comfortable. I am surprised that there is a large British tour group aboard.
We find three restaurants, two hot tubs, saunas, a fitness room, laundry, library, and several lounges. The introductory session with the expedition crew is very dry and uninformative. We get helpful tidbits like, “don’t clog the toilets.” This was definitely not an entertainment cruise ship experience. It seems they are all business. But then, I thrive on quirky.
The passengers appear to be much older… seniors from Germany and England. While there are a few other Americans, we are largely outnumbered. The good news is that in an international crowd, English is the lingua franca.
The bad news is that my finicky eating travel mate is going to have a hard time these next few days. The ship specializes in local Norwegian cuisine, which means lots of fish and lamb. Seaweed, fish soup, and reindeer round out the menu. At our first meal aboard, I try the reindeer sandwich and it is delicious! Turns out that this midwestern girl who doesn’t really like meat, loves reindeer.
Belly full, I return to the cabin and climb up into my bunk. The down comforter is as comfortable as it looks and the rocking of the ship sends me sound asleep. I hope to dream of Northern lights and polar bears. An adventure into the arctic has begun.
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Travel Goals: No Particular Place To Go
I like days where I wake up in a new place with absolutely no expectations and nowhere to be. There is freedom in letting the day unfold without hurry or pressure. So after a leisurely cup of coffee, we walk down the mountain to Sandvika, a small fishing community that used to be the site of a lucrative fish packing business. Today it is the location of a Norwegian fishing museum. We have zero expectations.
The museum staff welcome us warmly and suggest that we follow the brightly colored painted fish on the floor. We dutifully follow the cod to our first exhibit where we assume a virtual identity. We then follow our avatar through various tasks to teach us about the highly profitable Norwegian fish farms.
Other rooms take us through the old warehouse, built on stilts in the harbor. We learn that a container ship spilled in the North Sea and that rubber ducks have been found all over the world due to ocean currents. We watch well made documentaries about seal skins, the difficulty of fishing in the modern economy, and the real impact on small villages that dot the coast. I learned a lot and played games like a little kid. There was smiles and laughter.
After an enjoyable morning, we walk in the cold rain to another visitor center that explains the impact and controversy surrounding commercial salmon farms. It was kind of boring, but I learned of the existence of salmon lice. Who knew?
It unfortunately is still raining. We walk up the hill to a small bakery for coffee and a croissant. As I start to sit and remove my wet coat, a young woman informs me that she was saving the seat next to mine. It is the last seat left in the cafe, so we huddle around a small ledge by the cash register. No one seems to care that we are crowded into an ever tightening space. The person the seat is saved for eventually shows up and moves her seat closer into the one and one half foot of real estate we manage to claim. We take the hint and drink our tiny cup of coffee (think small juice glass) and head back outside into the cold rain.
Norwegians definitely have different views of personal space. They stand in doorways and block entire sidewalks. They block roads and aren’t in any particular hurry. They are not rude, just indifferent. They love to be spread out. At least that is my impression.
Along the way, we locate the Hanseatic League museum in the Bryggen district. This small museum is dedicated to preserving the original buildings of the Medieval “global trading network”. We walk through the offices with sliding peephole windows where the masters could spy on the servants. We were surprised to see a whip made of bull testicals that was used to whip apprentices that fell asleep or otherwise earned demerits.
Much of the building is a recreation. The district had fallen into disrepair. In the 1950s, some called the area a rat’s nest and wanted it torn down. But historians and preservationists prevailed, thankfully. Today Bryggen is a celebrated area of Norway. It is charming in all the best ways. We feel like we stepped into a time warp.
I am fascinated by the kitchen. It has a rain barrel suspended from the roof. A large oven cooked food, but also powered metal heaters inside the building. Apprentices had to wear special wooden shoes inside the kitchen to ensure they didn’t accidentally take embers with them into the wooden warehouses and start a fire.
It is long past lunchtime as we leave the museum, and the rain is mostly stopped. The first restaurant we find is a quirky Irish pub. No matter where in the world we are, there is always at least one. We find a “snug” booth and order. Meanwhile a bachelor party enters and begins to entertain the room. The groom proudly tells me in broken English that he was getting married to “get laid”. His friends drag him off as he waves and cheers his way out the door. Another man across the way nods to my husband and says “He has no idea what he is getting into.” Male bonding across cultures. I roll my eyes to prove their point.
To end our day, I decide that I need a little retail therapy. In general, I find Norway expensive. Food is triple the cost of home. Shopping is therefore less appealing. But I find a few bargains, including a wool sweater that will come in handy as we head further north. Even if I buy nothing, a favorite part of travel is exploring the shops and goods that give glimpse into another way of life. And anyway, today we have nothing better to do.
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Travel Goals: Museum Hopping
The day has not started well. After walking across town, the museum we want to visit isn’t open (even though it should have been). But, there is a lovely chocolate cafe next door. My husband enjoys a large cup of hot chocolate as we regroup. I have a surprise brown cheese cheesecake that makes the entire walk worth it.
Just down the street, we finally enter the Kode museum complex. It turns out to be a small museum of Norwegian artists. They have temporarily placed misshapen clay pottery in every single gallery. I don’t like it. I’m sure the artist is a delightful human, but not my thing. They don’t fit in the rooms and seem very disruptive to the exhibits.
I enjoy a large collection by Edvard Munch. The evolution of an artist leading up to and after his mental illness issues is fascinating. His works evoke emotion even though I generally don’t like modern art. I am not sure why I am so drawn to the work.
The museum desk sends us next door to the “Everything is Alive” exhibit in the Bergen Kuntshall. Modern interactive art is meant to be thought provoking….but sometimes it is just weird. A video of a man swimming by a paper mache whale is interesting. A grainy video retelling a folk tale about a mermaid is beyond strange. A video of two naked women with unicorn horns rubbing pomegranate on each other is more than a little disturbing. Honestly, I didn’t get it. And I don’t really want to. Pretentious nonsense.
Feeling a little disappointed with my choices for spending the day, we head to the permanent KODE galleries. The park is slowly filling with people and the sun has finally appeared. Inside, Kode celebrates two extraordinary Norwegian women, a sculptor and a painter. The entire museum has only two floors, one for each artist. They were talented artists and the pieces are exceptionally well done. Still, I am not yet inspired.
Our tickets allow us to visit one more place, Edvard Grieg’s home. To get to the Grieg Museum, we have to navigate the light rail system. The Norwegians we encounter tend to stand in doorways, sidewalk entrances and ticket booths. They stop in the least desirable place and block the path. We try not to get ran over and navigate around to the ticket machines. We have use our credit card and get no ticket or receipt. The ticket is stored on our card….we hope. We also hope we will be charged for only one trip. Who knows? It is all very mysterious. But we board the train and settle in for the 20 minute ride to Hop station.
Once we arrive at Hop station, we follow the signs for the 25 minute walk to the Grieg Museum. It is a nice neighborhood along the fjord. The swans swim in the afternoon sun along the river. Bicycles drive by at breakneck speeds as we try not to get flattened. Eventually we arrive.
We collect our audio guide and head to the cafe for lunch. They say they are sold out. Of almost everything. We eat peanuts and a scone because it is 2:30 and there is nowhere else to go. This day…
We arrive in time for the house tour that visits the composer’s summer home and his writing studio by the lake. I also walk down to see his tomb by the lakeside. It is peaceful here. Finally, we end up inside of the museum and watch a filmof beautiful Norwegian landscapes set to his music. My husband is not familiar with Grieg outside of the many times Bugs Bunny frolicked to the tunes. I am reminded of a childhood recording of Peer Gynt that used to scare me and make we squeal in anticipation. Happy memories at the end of a full day.
It is not the day we expected when we set out. Not even a day I would have chosen. But pleasant, nonetheless. Not everything worthwhile is exactly to your liking…sometimes you just have to go with the flow and take the experience as it comes.
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Travel Goals: Norwegian Surprises and the Kindness of Strangers
A great rule of travel is to expect the unexpected. This usually means to be prepared for things to go wrong. Some days, however, are unexpectedly full of delightful surprises. Today is one of those days. After sleeping much later than I intended, we take our time getting ready. A walk across town, gave me the perfect opportunity to photograph the Bryggen waterfront. The colorful buildings are beautiful when framed by water and sky.
We decide to visit the aquarium. After wandering streets through high rise business. San Francisco style switchback streets, and a few parks along the water we arrive. We are the only visitors not accompanied by a small child, and there are several groups of preschoolers wearing yellow vests and chatting excitedly.
I am intrigued immediately by the penguins. They each have a colored armband that corresponded to a display board with their name. Knowing each name somehow makes them more accessible. We call their names and watch their antics like old friends.
Nearby, the sea lions jump and swim, cajoling us to play along. The largest member of the pod, “Amy” screams over and over. She watches the park from her overlook and is making a lot of noise. We realize she is looking for someone, maybe calling for someone. Is she hungry? Hurt?After about ten minutes, keepers appear and it is show time. Amy gets fed and medically checked while she dies a series of commands that earn her fish. She is a prima donna.
Inside, we are all alone in the tropical gallery. As we are admiring the Philippine crocodiles, a door opens behind me and two men appear with a python. Startled, we strike up a conversation. The younger man is giving his first creature “presentation”. We willingly listen and obediently pet the snake. (We don’t like snakes, but want to encourage him.) We learn there are only three snakes in Norway and that only one is venomous. The senior keeper wants to know all about the snakes in the woods where we live. He is almost giddy as I describe encounters with copperheads, cottonmouths, and rattlesnakes.
With enthusiasm, we are invited behind the scenes…since it is just the two of us in the entire complex. Wooden doors are opened into the display areas. Mice are placed on long metal poles. A monitor lizard with fierce jaws wrestles the mouse away almost faster than I can process and the. Runs away.
At the next door, a boa is laying against the opening and has to pushed back in to keep him from falling on us. A mouse is offered and the boa strikes quickly. It then tries to squeeze the already dead mouse. I don’t really like snakes, but am fascinated nonetheless. The keepers don’t have to take time to share their world with us and yet they are sharing with great enthusiasm. It is clear they love their work and their animals. We are touched and grateful.
As much as we enjoy the aquarium, by late afternoon we are hungry. Food at the aquarium (fish soup or hotdogs) is not appealing to us so we decide to walk to a highly rated food truck along the harbor. When we arrive, the promised vendor is no where in sight. Hmmm. Never fear! Just around the corner, we find Kippers.
The view is good so we sit and examine the menu. We are the only people in the dining room (the locals all sit outside in the brisk 40 degree sunshine). At first, the offerings do not make sense to our American dining habits. Also, Norwegian food is expensive. Easily double what we would pay at home, I am having a hard time making my brain feel like it is worth the expense. Finally, we order fries and a cheese platter. A solid lunch we can share, but definitely nothing fancy.
After chatting with the waitress and settling in to watch the boats drive by, we notice excitement in the kitchen. I hear the chef say, “look but don’t touch”. Soon, all five sous chefs appear. The chef came carrying a beautiful tray of meat and roasted tomatoes. They take photos and ooh and ahh over the dish. We smile and enjoyed watching their excitement about new menu possibilities. Suddenly the head chef appears with a beautiful small tray of steak in a white sauce. For us, he says. Just because we happen to be in the restaurant at the right time and because we are sharing in their joy. It is delicious. We recommend it to be added to the menu. We are satiated and grateful.
By late afternoon, we make our way back to the Nordnesparken. The historic city landmark has a heated pool, a sauna, and access to the sea. When in Norway…. You have to sauna and take the polar plunge. We wait in line with the locals on very narrow steep steps. Old men with speedos in mesh bags push past us. They apparently have annual passes and can’t be bothered with those of us who need to buy admission…Even if they have to knock us off of the steps to pass us. It is chaos.
Eventually we get a bracelet that allows access. We split up to enter through gender based locker rooms. The changing room is one long room that empties into the pool area. No room to be shy. No place for privacy. When in Norway….
The pool is heated to 90 degrees, perfect for the 40 degree weather. I giggle when I realize that the lifeguards have on heavy winter coats and scarves. My hero is a 90 plus year old lady who appears in her bathing suit, jumps directly into the 40 degree seawater, gets out and stands calmly talking to people for fifteen full minutes in the 40 degree weather. She gets herself a coffee and stands nonchalantly drinking it before heading inside, never stepping foot in either the heated pool or the sauna. Iron granny is a bad ass.
We stick with the heated pool. But I begin to feel adventurous. Inspired by the iron granny, I head to the sauna for five minutes of intense heat. Fortified, I climb down the ladder to the sea. I can do this if a ninety year old can do this. Five to six seconds later, after very, very briefly wetting my torso in the frigid fjord, I walk as calmly as I can to the heated pool. Sweet Lord help me! No need to make a spectacle. Iron granny, I am not. I can’t feel my limbs. Adventurous slightly wimpy granny, is as much as I can claim.
I expect the unexpected. I am willing to get out there. I am willing to interact with strangers. I will try new things. I like to think I am resilient and tough. But swim in a frozen fjord and then linger in the freezing cold to chat with strangers tough…I am not. Some day….maybe I will be someone’s inspiration to try new things and take a more adventurous approach to life. But alas, I will never be an iron granny level of cool. She inspires without ever knowing I notice her.
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Travel Goals: Forest Bathing
We hike down the hill this morning to catch the Floibanen funicular to Floyen. The cars are modern and clean. It is a rare and sunny day in Bergen and the locals are flocking to the mountain. We go along.
At the top, we enjoy the views of Bergen and the surrounding fjords. Smaller towns dot the islands and hills surrounding the city. I have to get out my sunglasses to combat the glare from the sunshine on the sea. It is beautiful here and I feel on top of the world.
A large map lays out the immediate area of parklands. I take a photo so I don’t get lost in the forest. People rush in all directions, excited to make their way into the forest. Moms with baby buggies, elderly men and women, teenage joggers… the whole town seems to be rushing to the woods.
I am intrigued by the promise of the troll forest. It is underwhelming in person give what my imagination concocted, yet still charming. Wooden carvings sit beside a large playground to provide entertainment for adults and children alike. We look and take fun photos, but the forest calls….at least to me. My husband heads back to the park hub to find a place to people watch and I walk into the woods.
The broad trail winds up the mountain in a steep and steady climb. The cold wind chaps my lips, but the sun is warm on my face. My thick goose down coat keeps away any chill. I smell the fir trees and the strong scent of rotting needles. I breathe deep. The ground is frozen but the top layers are beginning to thaw. The sun makes shadows among the trees. I feel alive in ways that only the deep forest can stir in me.
About a mile into the walk, the views become even more spectacular, revealing lakes and rivers amongst the trees. In my world, it doesn’t get any better than this. I am forest bathing. I hug a tree, literally, to feel the soft moss and cold bark. Sunlight, thick trees, birdsong, green moss and flowing water…this is God’s country.
Realizing I have been gone a long while, I reluctantly turn around and head back to the park hub. As I head downhill, I notice the steady stream of senior citizens out for a walk. They are impressive, as the hike is strenuous and completely uphill. But they are just enjoying the habits of a lifetime spent in the forest. Their bones know the way.
Preschoolers run wild at the trailhead. Their faces are covered in dirt and silly grins. They scream and laugh amidst the trees. I find my husband sitting on a bench enjoying the view and patiently waiting for my return. We get coffee and marvel at the coffee lids which are compostable and shaped like a pringles potato chip. Scandinavian design in organic cardboard. Forest friendly.
I am not yet willing to leave the forest, so we decide to find the lake I saw from the mountain. We walk a half mile into the woods and find the charming little lake. Ducks swim contentedly. We take the path around, dodging ice patches and mud puddles. Further into the woods I see boardwalks over muddy moss and wetland. Adventure awaits.
We walk across marshy ground further into the woods. Sometimes there is boardwalk and other times there are just tree roots or rocks. Because we pass lots of people along the way, we think we are not lost. Eventually we emerge at the mountain edge with beautiful views of the valley. We can see the length of the valley to Bergen and the sea beyond. The sun is much lower in the sky and the light is softening.
We are hungry and it is unfortunately time to head back. I am excited to see the goats of the mountain who live along the trail, but they are hiding today. A metal insignia is my only goat sighting.
Disappointing but, it is okay. My heart is full. The forest filled it. I inhale one final deep breath of pine and we head back to the train. A perfect day in the woods….forest bathing.
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Travel Goals: Medieval Halls and Military History
The flowers are blooming in Bergen even if it is only barely above freezing. The sun is shining and things look bright as we start the trek down the steep hill towards the town. Walking the switchbacks, we have a great view of the harbor. The birds sing and the boats roll in from the sea. It is hard not to feel joy.
We easily find the Rosenkrantz Tower, the most significant Medieval structure in Norway. A true fortress castle, the tower is multiple floors of medieval halls accessible by tiny, narrow stairs. Up and up to the chapel, and then on to the men’s hall. I stop to imitate the gargoyles. What would it have been like to have to climb these steep and narrow stairs? How cold would it be in winter?
The upper floors hold cannon and gun powder. If your arsenal is stored in your house, what happens in a fire? These are things I am happy I don’t have to consider.
The roof wall affords a chilly view of the harbor. A boatman is rocking out on 80’s hair bands as he works on deck. I smile and feel instant kinship. Gen x salutes you…
Inside the castle, panels tell the sorry tale of the wife of a bishop who is accused of being a witch when her husband dies. It is a story of jealous women, greed, and a vulnerable woman who was unjustly persecuted and executed with no evidence. A minister’s wife targeted for her education and social conscience.
Deep in thought, I survive the steep circular descent and emerge into the Bergenhus Festning (Fortress). It is a strange mix of military base and public park. Home of the Norwegian Music corps and medieval castles. The walk is lovely and I am intrigued by large crow like birds that dance across the grass. Also, I am surprised that we are walking through an active military base.
Just around the corner, we enter Hakon’s Hall. It is a large structure built for the wedding of King Hakon in the early 1200’s as a royal residence and feast hall. Today it is a strange building. The admission is high. We wander through large rooms that are full of modern tables and chairs. The area is crisscrossed by wooden platforms and stairs. Signs tell you that the furniture is protected by law and that the rooms can be rented or used by the royal family, etc. I am struggling to see why we just paid for this experience.
Just as I am starting to feel like the world’s most gullible tourist, we climb the stairs into the hall. The great room is impressive. The Dias speaks of royalty. The timbers supporting the roof are massive. The tapestries are inspired. I realize the magic of this place.
Eventually, we follow the music to the Bergenhus Festning Museum. It is a small military museum. We are greeted at the door by a staff sergeant who welcomes us. The first gallery is a photographic journey through the early days of Russia’s invasion of Ukraine. Horrific photos of civilian casualties, of war crimes, and families fleeing the destruction break my heart. But I am happy to see a truthful historical record and obvious support.
Just downstairs, the World War II exhibit tells the story of Nazi invasion and Norwegian Resistance. Artifacts and photographs tell a terrible tale of rights taken, citizens targeted, the escape of the king, and the brave men and women that gave their lives in the fight for freedom. A large area chronicled the propaganda, the policing of speech, and the underground resistance. Sobering…
After the reminder of the terrible chaos power hungry men can inflict, we decide to go to church. St. Mary’s cathedral is one of the oldest churches in Norway. The pulpit is dazzling, carved and painted wood. It is a simple reminder that God supports the world and that we are all connected. I say a prayer for this country and ours. I pray for peace and liberty and justice for all.
It is late afternoon and we need food. Meals are very expensive, so a quick lunch will have to do. I will cook a nice evening meal at the apartment. But first, we walk through Bryggen. The old wooden buildings are a protected world heritage site. From these shops the Hanseatic League engaged in world trade for over 400 years. The buildings are quirky, crooked, and densely packed. Today, shops and restaurants fill the buildings as commerce continues. Tourists buy woolens and fur. I am content to browse. . . My husband waits patiently and thinks about walking up that big hill to get to our apartment.
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Travel Goals: All Aboard to Bergen
After my breakfast of brown cheese (I am developing a taste for the stuff) and whole grain bread washed down with dark coffee, we pack up and head downstairs to the train station. As it turned out, the Comfort Hotel Grand Central was an excellent location to spend a few days while we transitioned to Norwegian time. Indoor shops, visitor center, money exchange, restaurants and the hotel are all connected to the train station. Convenient and comfortable, we accidentally made a great choice.
Because I am impatient, we get to the track about 40 minutes early. Another train is unexpectedly moved onto our track ahead of our train, causing some confusion for tourists. For once, I am not the one anxious about catching the train. I help an elderly woman navigate the exchange. Another gets on the wrong train, but thankfully gets off again before it departs.
For this journey, I splurge and get first class carriage seats. They are roomy and somewhat privately tucked into the front corner of the train. They also have wide reclining seats and a table. Complimentary coffee and tea is available for all seven hours of our journey from Oslo to Bergen. The windows are large and afford excellent views of the countryside.
I settle in for the long haul. Book, music, and camera are at the ready. Luggage is safely stowed. At first the scenery is industrial and grey. Not much to look at.
Eventually the landscape turns to suburban towns. Still not much to look at except apartments and businesses. Finally, we arrive in the area along the fjords. Farmhouse after farmhouse rolls by. Red barns dot amber fields. The sky is grey with the promise of snow. Quintessential Norway. Postcard worthy Norway.
A few hours into the journey I want food. The lady a few rows ahead of us has packed a homemade lunch and it smells good. An aroma of home cooked goodness wafts throughout the car. We decide to check out the dining car menu. I am interested to see what our options are. Turns out that the Norwegians have a strange fascination with hotdogs. I, sadly, do not. So, we settle for surprisingly good pizza. I am offered a garlic dipping sauce. When in Norway….you try the dip. Especially if you reject the hotdogs.
Walking through the general boarding cars to get to the cafe, I am thankful to have booked the upgrade. The other train cars are crowded and noisy. A few even smell. On the plus side there is a kid’s playground on board and even a car to store skis. It seems a lot of people brought skis. Where is everyone going?
The snow started to fall heavily about halfway through the trip. As the train climbed in elevation, the snow became more pronounced. The trees were suddenly covered. Drifts the height of the train were kept back by wooden barricades. Houses were visible only by the roof lines. Lakes and rivers were frozen over. At one station, snow kites were flying riders across the frozen fjord. I didn’t even know snow kiting was a thing until I looked it up.
The train climbed even higher into the mountains where ski runs were busy with people enjoying the fresh powder. The train stopped at a station with literally nothing around it. Six cross country skiers hopped on board as the snow swirled. I have no idea where they came from.
The top of the mountain fades seamlessly into the clouds of snow. In the mountain towns, both children and dogs are outfitted in colorful snow suits. Skiers drag their supplies on sleds. Houses dot the landscape with no viable roadways. I wonder if the only way in is to ski.
Eventually the train track turns down the mountain. Mists rise off the fjords. Cows and sheep fill the pastures. And everywhere I look there is rushing water. Rivers and waterfalls of melting snow roar down the mountain. Beauty overwhelms me on all sides.
Five hours in and the fjords get wider. It is starting to get dark and the mountains turn hazy. Towns appear on the banks. Real towns with shops and schools and roads line the water. I am saturated with the beauty of the surroundings. I take way too many pictures. None of which will capture the glory of the moment.
It is after dark when we disembark in Bergen. It is a little warmer here, so we decide to walk to the apartment we have rented. It is uphill the entire way. I have a 10 lb pack and a mid size suitcase to wrestle up the steep and winding streets. The narrow staircase is steep. I run out of steam and stop to rest.
The spectacular views of this day are not over. Standing and looking over the streets of Bergen, I am grateful we are here. And I am glad we chose a scenic journey aboard the Bergen line.
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Prisoner of Hopes 